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Thread: Oil leak goes bad, uh-oh....

  1. #21
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    yes you can get clots in oil systems...

    excess gasket goop is one cause, some of those stop leak products are another, bad oil, failed filters, cooked oil, theres a few more as well....

    upon removing your rockers (assuming it was me doing it)

    If I saw any clotting, clogging snotting or any other of those uncool signs of funky oil Id be ringing you and saying "mate, your engines coming out and getting a pull down" it wouldnt be for rebuild (unless you were willing to fork out for new bits) but so I could get to all the internal galleries with the 150psi air and degreaser. (id probabley do new rings tho)

    After the explination about all the little galleries in things like valvetrains, crank shafts and con rods (nothing too critical there ) that might get well enough blocked to starve your engine of oil. If you were to say "no dice cant afford it and need it in less than 2 days whats the cheap quick fix?"

    I'd drain the oil put the bung back in and fill the sump with kero Id pull your spark plugs and then wind the engine over while doing the compression test thing on a v8 thats good for about 100-150 turns of the crank... once i was done there if it hadnt pumped kero up to the valvetrain Id wind the motor till it did or I was worried about the starter/battery..

    assuming that the compression came up ok relative to the cylinders ID do a leakage test and if you had more than 15% leakage on a cold engine Id revisit the rebuild territory with ya

    Then Id drain the kero and have a look see..

    If it looked reasonable and wasnt carrying vast quantities of snot Id then change the filter and refill with the cheapest 5/15w oil known to man and blend in a litte kero...

    wind it on the starter till it was coming out the valvetrain and then put the plugs back in and let it idle watching my bolt in oil pressure gauge like a hawk and listening closely.

    drain check refil replace filter and go for a drive...

    if that oil comes out ok refil with penrite 20/50w for older engines and one more new filter.

    Theres some bits missing from there, like cleaning out and modding the crankcase vent system, pressure test the coolant system but you get the idea.

    Dont use petrol.. it tends to want to go bang when put under pressure and if its streaming oil like you said...

    mind you itd make a very interesting insurance claim...
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  2. #22
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    Thanks, Dave. I'll de sludge with kero, not petrol.

    I'm not pulling down the donk.

    This engine has been mighty fine and has no real signs of vast wear... this issue is sudden as opposed to a long term gradual wearout (been thru that with a Triumph 2500PI engine which eventually gave up after 320,000 miles (miles)....

    Rob: I was actually looking at it, the PCV, thinking is this a problem?......

    But I really do like your idea about up and down pressure Dave.

    Explains a lot.

    GQ

  3. #23
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    An update:

    The PCV (firetrap) was clogged, a real mess. I removed the rocker cover (right side) and found a horrible sight.

    The inside cover is caked in heavy black goo and grit, as are the valves and springs, its awful.

    Amazing anything is working in there, yuk.

    GQ

  4. #24
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    photos Quiggers photos!!
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiggers View Post

    The inside cover is caked in heavy black goo and grit, as are the valves and springs, its awful.

    GQ
    hmm so what causes this???

    just lack of servicing/oil?
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  6. #26
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    hmm so what causes this???

    just lack of servicing/oil?
    Probably lack of servicing plus blocked breather/PCV.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #27
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    You're half right there John, It gets oil and filter changes every 5000ks or so, but I haven't been near the pcv until now.

    The pcv was full of goo, so I removed it and the gauze and cleaned it out.

    The lines from the pcv were equally gooey and they've also been cleaned.

    The rhs rocker cover (pictured) was filthy and has been cleaned.

    The top of the (rhs) head has also been cleaned as it was filthy.

    As of this afternoon it has all been re assembled, the oil and filter have gone and have been replaced - the oil I put in contains a 'sludge cleaner/remover' which was kindly supplied by another AULRO member (60mls to five litres).

    But i still have another issue - after about five minutes of engine idling the oil light comes on........as earlier described this apparently monitors oil pressure.

    Right now, I just don't know..... which is a bugger.

    (and I was going to go for a run to Levuka this weekend, oh well........)

    Cheers, GQ
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  8. #28
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    I forgot something - Dave - haven't yet done the kero trick, how much do you think (litres) for this job?

    GQ

  9. #29
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    with that much sludge in the engine i would be very cautious about using kero etc.....
    it may just loosen it in clumps and block off some oil galleries.....


    to quieten your your noisy lifters.....put about 400mls of auto trans fluid in with the engine oil.......and let the engine run for for 5-10 mins......
    maybe take it around the block....this should help to quieten them down again.....
    then change the oil and filter......


    but i wouldnt worry about any of that till you sort out the oil pressure first......


    i would start with a compression test....both wet and dry.....
    then i would connect an oil pressure guage to see what pressure you have....crud may have simply blocked up the oil pressure switch.....
    it may need replacing......the pressure guage will tell you.....

    once you have done these two tests you have a better idea of which direction to head to sort out your problems......

    good luck.....

  10. #30
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    I wouldn't be doing anything until I put an oil press gauge on.
    The fact that the light is coming on indicates low pressure.
    Could be a faulty switch, but the noise indicates low pressure.

    DON'T RUN THE ENGINE WITH LOW PRESSURE.

    I reckon the problem may be in pump.
    That amount of sludge indicates poor flow.
    Could be bearings - but the low km suggests not.

    Keep us posted

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