Thread: Crusie Control

drive along with your foot on the loud pedal

press set/cruise release that and the loudpedal

press acc/resume to move it up later on or stop the loud pedal and hit set/cruise again..

from memory but its been 3 years since i had cruise control.

Hi Andy
Does the Disco1 have a button like the Disco2 on the dash to activate the system,my Disco2 has a button on the binnacle with 2 white lines on it,press that the system activates.Then use the set/resume etc buttons as Dave said.
Andrew

I Andy - I responded to you in the other forum along with some w#*ker who questioned why you had a Disco.

Gazzz

Assuming your ’96 ’Disco is a V8 and the same as my ’98 ‘Disco …

The main assumption here is that your cruise control is vacuum operated with an electric pump mounted behind the passenger-side headlight and a diaphragm actuator with a rubber hose feeding it mounted on a bracket at the rear of the plenum chamber

Depress the switch on the centre facia below the radio which is trying to do an impression of a piece of highway (two vertical lines leaning towards each other to look like a perspective view of a highway) and reminds me of the movie Vanishing Point which may be an unfortunate association. This activates the cruise control initially.

When you reach the speed you want to hold, operate the SET button by flicking it back towards you (this, I confess, had me fooled when I first drove the ‘Disco as I expected to press it!) and wait. And then wait some more.

After about 30 sec ease off on the loud pedal and see if the vehicle holds its speed. If it does you’ve succeeded.

If it doesn’t hold its speed, its likely that the vacuum line has fallen off somewhere or a vacuum dump switch on the brake and/or clutch pedal is faulty. My experience is that this end is more likely to give trouble than the pump end. There is a combined electric and vacuum dump switch over the brake pedal and there should be one over the clutch pedal as well – they disable the cruise control instantly when you need to brake or change gear.

In the driver-side footwell, take the flimsy black cover above the pedals off (it has the OBDII connector on it so you are limited as to where you can put it unless you flick out the connector). Have a feel around above the pedals and find the black rubber hose which is the vacuum line and follow it around and make sure there isn’t an open end. There will probably be a tee connector and it will go to both pedals (unless you have an auto). The switches pop out of their sockets on the pedal support frame and the retaining tags can break off so be gentle with them if you have to take them out to reconnect the hose.

If there’s no problem there work your way back to the actuator on the plenum chamber and then back to the pump behind the front LHS headlight, checking the hose connections. If you can't find a disconnected hose or a split, try sucking the end of the hose at some convenient point - you should be able to apply enough vacuum with your lungs to move the actuator if all is well.


The cruise control works reasonably well (if you’ve got the vacuum system I’ve described) but it tends to be sluggish and slow to respond to changes in road slope. It works fine on flat open road, but it’s not that great on hills – even worse when towing, I’d imagine. It’d be great to replace it with a fly-by-wire system at the right price – SWMBO has a Corolla with an after-market fly-by-wire system which I have to admit works very well .

Happy Cruising!

What a great understandable explanation, GH.

* * *I suggest this should be considered for inclusion in the Tutorial Section.



Some months ago I needed to replace the Rotary Coupler Module in the steering wheel & now find the new one has a faster response than the old original one. Imagination? Don't think so. Different P/N as well.

Originally Posted by GrahamH

Assuming your ’96 ’Disco is a V8 and the same as my ’98 ‘Disco …

The main assumption here is that your cruise control is vacuum operated with an electric pump mounted behind the passenger-side headlight and a diaphragm actuator with a rubber hose feeding it mounted on a bracket at the rear of the plenum chamber

Depress the switch on the centre facia below the radio which is trying to do an impression of a piece of highway (two vertical lines leaning towards each other to look like a perspective view of a highway) and reminds me of the movie Vanishing Point which may be an unfortunate association. This activates the cruise control initially.

When you reach the speed you want to hold, operate the SET button by flicking it back towards you (this, I confess, had me fooled when I first drove the ‘Disco as I expected to press it!) and wait. And then wait some more.

After about 30 sec ease off on the loud pedal and see if the vehicle holds its speed. If it does you’ve succeeded.

If it doesn’t hold its speed, its likely that the vacuum line has fallen off somewhere or a vacuum dump switch on the brake and/or clutch pedal is faulty. My experience is that this end is more likely to give trouble than the pump end. There is a combined electric and vacuum dump switch over the brake pedal and there should be one over the clutch pedal as well – they disable the cruise control instantly when you need to brake or change gear.

In the driver-side footwell, take the flimsy black cover above the pedals off (it has the OBDII connector on it so you are limited as to where you can put it unless you flick out the connector). Have a feel around above the pedals and find the black rubber hose which is the vacuum line and follow it around and make sure there isn’t an open end. There will probably be a tee connector and it will go to both pedals (unless you have an auto). The switches pop out of their sockets on the pedal support frame and the retaining tags can break off so be gentle with them if you have to take them out to reconnect the hose.

If there’s no problem there work your way back to the actuator on the plenum chamber and then back to the pump behind the front LHS headlight, checking the hose connections. If you can't find a disconnected hose or a split, try sucking the end of the hose at some convenient point - you should be able to apply enough vacuum with your lungs to move the actuator if all is well.


The cruise control works reasonably well (if you’ve got the vacuum system I’ve described) but it tends to be sluggish and slow to respond to changes in road slope. It works fine on flat open road, but it’s not that great on hills – even worse when towing, I’d imagine. It’d be great to replace it with a fly-by-wire system at the right price – SWMBO has a Corolla with an after-market fly-by-wire system which I have to admit works very well .

Happy Cruising!

I agree, a defiinate Tech inclusion.
Well done GH.
But the mention of the movie Vanishing point has got me all excited about Dodge Challengers again!!!!! Please, this does unmentionable things to my coronary system....

JC

NEVER MIND DODGE CHALLENGERS.
How about the bird on the bike!!!!!
Andrew