What sort of amps is the starter drawing ?? Did you measure it ?
Ladas
A little earler this mounth i posted about my 130 having a heap of troubles starting. I could get it going after a fair bit of cranking. Origanaly thought it was the glow plugs, so I had them replaced. The mech also ID the crank sensor was knackered too. I also changed the main battery. The problem still haunted me. After driving to Wodonga to catch up with blknight.aus he suspected the feul presure reg valve witch was a little stuck. Dave also helped with (did all the work) making an access pannel in the tubb to get the fuel pump. Anyway the mech stuck his volter metre on a few things and found that when the starter motor kicked in it was drawing power away from the ECU. No ECU no brrrrmmm brrrrrmmmm. This was easly overcome by disconecting the ECU from the main battery and on to the aux battery. First time starting now. However if the starter motor is drawing that much power maybe its on death row. Later I'll post some photos of the access panel in the tubb. Oh and by the way Cheers Dave for your help.
What sort of amps is the starter drawing ?? Did you measure it ?
Ladas
sounds like bad earths to me esp on the motor strap back to the chassis/battery...
run a couple of heavy duty dedicated earths and see whats what...
I shoulda thought of that but IT just didnt sound like it It was trying to fire and Id have thought that the pump would have dropped down when you were cranking but that didnt sound too bad..
from the sound of your startermotor its no where near deaths row, yours sounds to crank just as hard as mine which is part of the reason why I discounted the starting gear, you had enough RPM's on tap to get it to fire..
Glad to hear it was an easy fix.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Easo - Thanks for the PM on this topic, and thanks for thinking of me seeing as it looks like a similar problem.
I don't have a 2nd battery in the 130 at the moment, so I can't do the same as you did. I still get the feeling that my problem is a fuel issue, or an air in the fuel issue. If it was electrical (like yours) then it would fail to start ever, but mine eventually runs after 3 or 4 minutes of cranking and purging. Very annoying when you are in a hurry to get going.
Anyway - I will check my earth strap and see what the connection looks like. It is a 2002 TD5, so it's in pretty good nick under the seats but maybe it has some corrosion that's not obvious.
Cheers
David
Not familiar with the earth setup on the TD5, but on my 110 the excess current draw and starting problem turned out to be the engine/chassis earth. I ran a new lead from the battery to the gearbox and from the gearbox to the chassis - problem solved. In my case it was oil on the connection, not corrosion. Also note that it could simply be slightly loose, which would not be at all obvious.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Very nice timing on this one. My beast has gone from instant start to taking up to 30-45 second to fire. Friend has noticed that if the aircon is not turned off then it's harder to start. My aux battery is also dying but the main tested ok a week ago but was low on charge.
Thought is I have a power drain somewhere.
Dose the ECU draw power even if the car is switched off? Cause now my Aux is dead. I'm running the parana system.
he elec has hooked the ecu strait the the aux then yes..
the ecu has a main power buss (main input) and a signal input(from the IGN switch. its going to depends on how mr elecy has rewirred the ECU did he rewire the whole ignition barrel (power from aux bat to ign switch) or the ecu direct (power from aux batt into ecu) if hes done it the second way and grabbed the wrong 12v rail yes it will..
Dont forget guys altho so far its rare, if you get a nozzle in an injector to go naffy it will let cylinder pressure back into the fuel system meaning air in the injector supply rail Its a bugger to check for but can cause hard starts as the small pocket of compressed air raises the pressure in the supply line forces fuel out the regulator as the air bubble expands... But this should also be acompanied by rougher running at idle and power loss in the midrange.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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