I think that you will have to have the ECU fault codes read from its memory. That should give you a direction to look.
Hi - I am after some help with a small problem I have with my L series diesel freelander.
The engine is a 4 cylinder diesel with ECU controlled injection pump. The accelerator is fly by wire.
I drove to work OK and at lunch I went to go out and I noticed that on start up, the engine RPM blipped to 1800 then settled back to normal idle of around 850. As the engine revs came back down to idle the 'check engine' light came on. I switched off and went back through the startup routine - on turning on the ignition all the lights did the right thing and went out - which indicates the "fault" is not being stored in the ECU - on starting the engine, exactly the same happens - there is initially no check engine light, the engine starts and immediately blips to 1800rpm and when coming back to idle the "check engine" cames on.
The engine runs OK and will happily drive the car around - covered about 60km at lunch - no problems but the check engine light stays on.
My thoughts are that the blip in RPM is not being generated by the ECU (or the check engine light would come on first) but is being generated by something else (such as the accelerator potentiometer) and the blip in revs is being detected by the the ECU and sending a fault message.
Any ideas as my only real option in Canberra to fix is to take it to the stealer which I am not keen on doing.
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I think that you will have to have the ECU fault codes read from its memory. That should give you a direction to look.
Not sure, but I think the tacho is driven by the ECU. In which case you'll potentially need to get it interogated and faults cleared. The ECU would still need to get the engine speed from a sensor, but I don't know where. It could be from the Alternator or from a sensor on the crank. So it may be a faulty connection.
Sorry I'm not sounding to helpful when I re-read this![]()
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
Thanks Big Jon and DM - I guess I already knew that would be the answer - was just hoping someone might have had an idea - the local stealer is the stealer of all stealers so was hoping to stay away from them if I could. Guess I will have to bite the bullet.
Thanks
Gazzz
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
There is no problem when the car is cold but the issue returns when the car is warm or hot on start up.
I guess there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecu to give it more juice when cold (like a choke) - my thoughts are this sensor has failed or stuck in the cold position so on hot starts the ECU gives the engine too much fuel - hence the rpm blip and then other sensors pick up the fault and tell the ECU and the check engine light comes on.
As I am really not keen on going to the stealers I will start going through the workshop manual and RAVE looking for a sensor that does this.
Any ideas what and where it might be - I asume there is a similar sensor on other landy diesels.
Cheers
Gazzz
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
The ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor seems to control this sort of thing on both MEMS and EDC controlled vehicles.
On the EDC the sensor is located in the top of the coolant outlet elbow which is attached to the front of the cylinder head.
On the MEMS system, the sensor is screwed into a threaded port at the front of the engine/car fairly close to the ignition coil
In Mitchel there is a Landy specialist with the gear to read the codes. He is up near hte Cemetary end.
That is Canberra Motor Works - my disco always ran bad after it had been there and my wallet was always a hell of a lot lighter afterwards and I usually spent the next two weeks fixing the car myself. The last time I was there the car managed to get from the "specialist" to the Tuggy Parkway before it broke down after I had just spent nearly $600 fixing a slight miss.
I am afraid I would never recommend them. Morwoods in Fyshwick are good but don't have a machine to read codes. I will go through the books and Rave tonite and see what I come up with - at least the car runs OK and it is not an issue that is likely to cause damage.
Gazzz
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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