F&R Maxidrives - what is next to break?

Defender200Tdi · 5th February 2007, 08:08 AM

Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot

We are looking at fitting diff locks to our car. Maxidrive is a little more pricey than the arb airlocker, but comes with the strengthened axles.

My question is, if we do the maxi's F&R and possibly the maxi CV's what is the next weakest link? How likely is it that we'll break something?

Our usages will be desert stuff like the Canning, and Simpson. It will certainly do a cape trip at some point too. I'm not really into extreme play for the sake of it.

Our car is a 05 td5 fender. It will likely get a TR chipping in it's near future too.

It depends on what you mean by Maxi CVs. If you are referring to the AEU2522 CVs that are usually fitted with this upgrade and can be supplied by Mal, then the CVs will still be the weakest link, just not as weak as before. If you are talking about the modified CVs with a ring on the bell (ding - ha ha), or the Ashcroft CVs, then your next weak point will be the CW & P.

In the Defender rear, it'll probably be the propshaft because the Defender CW & P is stronger than that fitted to Discos and early Rangies, although with the late Defender rear you have (non salisbury), I'm not sure just how much stronger than the Disco/Rangie CW & P it is.

Paul

**Tusker** · 5th February 2007, 08:31 AM

Go Maxidrive all the way.

Most unlikely you'll need diff locks in the Simpson. We did it again last year with LROC, didn't engage once.

In fact I'd avoid using them. Some of the tracks twist sharply on the crest, and a difflock is harder to steer.

And if it does bog, you've got 4 wheels to dig out instead of two.

To answer you question, the difflocks can banana the rear trailing arms. They're aren't as strong as they used to be. We now carry spare arms on the LROC tuff trips.

It's rare that a CW&P breaks. And you don't have many options for the rear of an 05 Defender.

CVs can break. Getting stronger ones to work with ABS can be a hassle.

And upgrade the track rod to Maxidrive too - they don't seem to be as strong as they used to be.

Regards
Max P

**isuzurover** · 5th February 2007, 02:02 PM

Maxi-Drive for me as well.

Some mates of mine have done practically every offroad track in OZ and then some. They did all this with defenders with a maxi locker in the rear and a maxi HD front end (heavy duty axles and centre but no locker). Then never had ab driveline problem in all their trips (most trips were a few months at a time).

As to what will break next (if anything) - front ring and pinion (rear sals is indestructible - best to fit one if you have a rover rear - locker is cheaper then too), and CVs depending on type you fit. The super dooper (longfield/ashcroft) CVs will probably wear out too quickly in your application.

If you are running near std. size tyres and are sensible in how you drive and when you use the front locker, I doubt you would break anything.

**dungarover** · 5th February 2007, 03:35 PM

Originally Posted by LoadedDisco

Get Air Lockers stick to only one size larger tyre than stock and save on the money of maxi axels and CV's and you wont break anything anyway.
Nothing wrong with Air Lockers, just make sure the power for the compressor is wired direct to the battery not the cabin fuses.

I agree. Tomo a mate of mine had this problem when his rear air locker was fitted to hios 76 Rangie. The ARB fitters wired it through the ignition fuse, not a great idea on a dodgy old Luas electrical system

I wired mine directly to the battery on Aquarangie, never had a problem. also junked the crappy little blade fuse holder and put a big **** one in place of it

Trav

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