Thread: Freelander Engine Problem

Mate, AFAIK L series is mechanical (last time I checked mine was).

Did you check the glow-plugs? Hard starting could be caused by this.
Can't help you any more as I haven't got my Flandie here (Switzerland) nor have I got the repair manual yet (on order from Amazon). The tapping noise is not normal but it may be the glow-plug switch doing this - I think it switches off the glow plugs when the correct temp is reached - sort of like a relay. The reason for fast idle when it does eventually fire may build up of fuel as it is mechanically injected... the TD4 are common-rail diesels, the Di is 'normal'.

Thanks for reply, mechanic had replaced all glow plugs & fuel lines, flushed fuel tank and various other work (don't have list on me) in effort to fix problem.

I'm told that once started, it'll run from 1.5hrs to 4hrs before starting to 'muck up' then stopping. At this stage, the mechnic claims that all attempts to restart will fail. He further claims if the battery is then disconnected for "30 seconds" the engine can be started again with the same degree of difficulty as before.

I keep using the word "claim" simply because I've only had it for 2 days and am waiting for the w/e to have a play in the engine bay.

Originally Posted by Defender130

Hi folks,

I have a 98 Freelander with an 'L' series diesel engine. I need to keep the starter winding over for at least 30 seconds to start it whilst it tries to fire. Sometimes it won't fire at all, but when it does, it runs rough for a a good 15 seconds after then revs very high before settling down to idle. Sometimes after the high rev it'll just dies.

When the ignition is first switched on, there is a loud, fast tapping sound that seems to come from the top of the injector pump (kind of like on old SU fuel pump), that continues however long the ingnition is turned on.

If bought the vehicle in this condition (for a VERY low price), and have no idea if the tapping noise is normal. Can anyone confirm if this noise is normal and if not, make suggestions on a fix ?

Does anyone have any info on the internals of the ECU and VP37 injector pump ?

Thanks, Paul

Hi Paul

Where are you - I assume that it is hot like it is here in Canberra so glow plugs should only glow for a second or two - I can start my car immediately so at our current temps the car should start immediately even if the glow plugs were dodgey - so 30secs is too long for this time of year and it should start immediately and not be trying to start - I would start with the glow plugs but I suspect the injectors might need doing over as well. When starting and revving high is not normal - should only go to idle - I had a problem this week with the coolant temp sender for the ECU which makes the car revs to 1800 rpm but the check engine light came on - with the issues you have I would expect that your check engine light should be on. If it is not coming on this again could indicate dirty injectors and or a glow plug issue.

The loud tapping sound - is it tapping or a loud buzz. A loud buzz is supposed to be there as it is a solenoid in the injection pump - if it continues after the ignition is turned off I am not sure. I suspect it is the solenoid as it does sound a bit like a fast clicking su fuel pump and it should be normal.

The engine is electronic in that the ECU governs the injector pump rather than the injectors in a TD4.

This week I have been having issues - see my Freelander Check engine light thread - I researched all ECU/injection related issues using the RAVE CD - available for a small price on this website - it goes into great detail covering most of the issue you have addressed. I suggest you get it.

The L series engine a real solid performer with virtually no issues - sounds like your engine just needs a going over - I suggest you get it to a stealer and get the ECU codes read and cleared as the ECU remembers faults and does not clear itself - cost me $50.

If you are new to freelander the main issue you need to watch is the condition of the viscous coupling which is overworked and can fail causing the IRD (transfer case) to fail - not a real issue as long as you know about it. Send me an e-mail and I can tell you all about it.

Cheers

Gazz

PS did you but the white freelander on e-bay this week - I was real tempted but have too much junk around my place as it is - if it was that car it was a great buy.

Gazzz

Yeah, it was the one on ebay, go it for $2,200. Trailered it back to Sydney from Bathurst behind the old commodore, quite a sight that one and a rather slow trip.

Except for the engine problems, vehicle is in perfect condition. Gear box got done a little while ago so everything should be fine. Once the engines sorted
I'll do the speed check to see if its got the ird mod in it.

The tapping or buzz does stop once engine runs, didn't know if its was meant to be there.

Live at Campbelltown, in the south west of Sydney. Email is defender130@hotmail.com - (used to own a 130 until 2 weeks ago).

Paul.

Originally Posted by Defender130

Yeah, it was the one on ebay, go it for $2,200. Trailered it back to Sydney from Bathurst behind the old commodore, quite a sight that one and a rather slow trip.

Except for the engine problems, vehicle is in perfect condition. Gear box got done a little while ago so everything should be fine. Once the engines sorted
I'll do the speed check to see if its got the ird mod in it.

The tapping or buzz does stop once engine runs, didn't know if its was meant to be there.

Live at Campbelltown, in the south west of Sydney. Email is defender130@hotmail.com - (used to own a 130 until 2 weeks ago).

Paul.

Ok found out what could be wrong. Find out when it last had a cam belt. If they put it one cog out then it will cause all the problem you talk about .Belive me a srtealer did on my brother l seris diesel and they told him there was nothing wrong but he had all the same problem you had. It was another Land Rover garage that found out what it was They called it Injector pump belt incorrectly fitted

The other thing to check is the air flow meter. The other optoin is to get it put on a diagnostic check

Thanks for the reply.
All belts were changed in an attempt to fix the problem, including idler pulleys. And re checked. Had enigne running yesterday, took quite an efffort to get going but once going it ran nicely - on idle. Once the accelerator was blipped, it settled down to the same idle speed but started to issues a lot of smoke.
Apparently there was a diagnostics done a few months ago (but only a couple of klms), the previous owner mailed them but they haven't arrived yet.
Unless theres something obvious in the report then I've no choice but to take it to the not-so-local stealer.

Paul.

betting you have a sticking spring or internal component in the fuel injection pump that is keeping it shut off and then when it lets go moves too far until vibration settles it down (fuel is the lubricant in the pump)

If you ve had a bad batch of fuel through it you can get this ditto if its been run with shot/cheapy filters

worst case is a new injection pump