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Thread: Ball Joint modification

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Sorry to be playing the devil's advocate, but is it legal to modify a suspension part? The 2 bolts normally just hold the ball joint to stop it falling out, but now the bolts are load-bearing at the top, although if they come adrift then the ball can only push through a small distance before the diff bracket pushes onto the A-frame, so you end-up with the rear-end floating around a little. I expect it would fail a reg check if spotted.
    The two bolts that screw in from below and hold the ball joint in place are untouched and they still do exactly what they always did. The new bolts that screw in from the top are separate and just strengthen what was originally a poorly designed or manufactured part.
    So no original part has been changed or made to work in a different way.
    Does that answer your concern or have I misunderstood your post?

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  2. #12
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Sorry to be playing the devil's advocate.
    Don't apologise for playing the devil's advocate. I would much rather hear about a possible problem or weakness from someone on this forum than have the whole thing blow up in my face at a later time.
    I took it for granted that posts such as this one of mine would result in constructive criticism, suggestions, questions, etc.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  3. #13
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnx205 View Post
    The two bolts that screw in from below and hold the ball joint in place are untouched and they still do exactly what they always did. The new bolts that screw in from the top are separate and just strengthen what was originally a poorly designed or manufactured part.
    So no original part has been changed or made to work in a different way.
    Does that answer your concern or have I misunderstood your post?
    Isn't the ball pushing on the ball seat which is held in place by the plate which is held in place by the 2 new top bolts? If this is so then the ball joint has been modified and I think that's a no-no, rego-wise.

    If 1 of the top bolts comes out then the ball seat would come out and then the ball would no longer be confined. It wont come completely apart, but would be a lot worse than just a loose ball.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  4. #14
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    I don't think there is much force pressing against the top and there isn't room for the ball to move up much.
    This would appear to be confirmed by the fact that I am fairly sure the joint failed almost as soon as I fitted it. I was not aware of that at the time and drove about 13,000km including the Oodnadatta Track before I discovered the problem. With great care I could change gear without any clunk at all, so I had convinced myself that when the problem was there it was my fault.
    It was only when I was replacing all the other bushes that I found the top dislodged and so loose that I could remove it by hand.
    I can't believe that my setup is weaker than the original and in the extremely unlikely event that the top comes adrift, it would seem that the vehicle is still quite driveable.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  5. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnx205 View Post
    The ball joint came from Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne. I have bought quite a few parts from them since 1983 and this is the only item that was of very disappointing quality.
    The one I took off, which I guess was the original one was not adjustable.
    The thread was stripped enough that I could lift the screw out with my fingers.
    I didn't need spacers because I adjusted the preload on the ball joint with the two bolts that went through the top plate. I can screw the top plate down a bit more later if it wears. The locknuts stop it moving.
    I thought about a grease nipple, but was a bit pushed for time. I probably should have added one. However, there is a very thin O-ring at the bottom of the adjusting screw, so that should keep in the grease that is already there. I smeared some silicone around the top of the big screw to try to keep water, dust and mud out of the ball joint.
    That says it all.... i have bought some parts of them and now i refuse to get anything that is made of metal or alloy from them.... the quality is not there. Plus Anda is not hot anymore.. she is getting old...

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Blairgowrie, Vic
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    oh, clarkie...
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE

  7. #17
    lokka Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by sclarke View Post
    That says it all.... i have bought some parts of them and now i refuse to get anything that is made of metal or alloy from them.... the quality is not there. Plus Anda is not hot anymore.. she is getting old...
    Your right there clarkie there quality of parts has gone to shyte and there prices are a joke they use to look after people who got a bit of gear from them and now they wont even budge on the cataloge prices ive found a closer cheaper suplyer and am happy with the service i get

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