Defender rims

**jimbo110** · 23rd February 2007, 07:02 PM

i have Disco alloys on my 110. date stamp 1993 max load 850 KG.

**isuzurover** · 23rd February 2007, 08:45 PM

Originally Posted by jimbo110

i have Disco alloys on my 110. date stamp 1993 max load 850 KG.

Great Info!!! The disco steel rims would have to be built as strong or stronger.

So 1700kg per axle and 3400kg overall. EDIT - 130 max laden weight is just over at 3500kg. But should be fine for everything else...

**dmdigital** · 23rd February 2007, 09:00 PM

Interestingly if you look in Microcat LR EPC the Disco rims (NTC5193MUE) are listed as parts against a Defender.

I got given 2 Disco rims the other week

. Now I just have to find 4 more

tombraider · 23rd February 2007, 09:05 PM

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Great Info!!! The disco steel rims would have to be built as strong or stronger.

So 1700kg per axle and 3400kg overall. EDIT - 130 max laden weight is just over at 3500kg. But should be fine for everything else...

Would explain why LRA offer Defender 110 with Boost Alloy (was a disco wheel) and the 130 with steelies only.

For the record, my TX1s are rated at 1400kg EACH.

**rangieman** · 23rd February 2007, 09:06 PM

im with you ben and I stand to be corrected if need be

another problem that neither yourself or john has thought of what about after market wheels or modified wheels i have both and they dont have a load rating on them

i even took my car when i bought it to get it assessed by the insurance company and i had modified 15" rims on the Defender and not a word was said about wheels
a disco towing rate is the same as a Defender as well if i remember right

also the military wheels on my Defender dont have a load rating ?

**cameron** · 23rd February 2007, 10:29 PM

Originally Posted by wovenrovings

Just wondering are any of the defender steel rims able to be used with tubeless tyres? The rims on my 120" are rivetted and so need tubes. Would be nice to run tubeless. Other option is disco rims of course.

I have been wondering this EXACT same thing this very day as I just got an unexplained flat in one of the tubed steelies on my 130.

So if the steelies on a 130 can't be used for tubeless what do folk on here recommend? I had been planning to get the tubes taken out and running my Coopers tubeless until local two tyre places refused to do it today

I am busy with various little projects getting the beast ready for a Sydney LROC double crossing trip of the Simpson. Do people feel that tubed LR steelies for/on a laden 130 represent too much hassle for potential punctures & repairs or would they be OK?

Everyone knows they are strong wheels but if I can't run tubeless what would people recommend to be at least as strong and better? Did I forget to mention that I don't have a bottomless pit of money?

Cheers,
Cameron

**wovenrovings** · 24th February 2007, 10:25 AM

Ok so it seems that the general opinion is that 110/county steelies will hold the air but don't have the retaining ridge in the bead which you are supposed to have to run tubeless. Also disco rims are probably strong enough but legality it in debate.

Is the idea of the bead to keep the seal on the bead at low pressures or hard cornering.

**rangieman** · 24th February 2007, 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by wovenrovings

Ok so it seems that the general opinion is that 110/county steelies will hold the air but don't have the retaining ridge in the bead which you are supposed to have to run tubeless. Also disco rims are probably strong enough but legality it in debate.

Is the idea of the bead to keep the seal on the bead at low pressures or hard cornering.

I think you will find it is called a safety bead and yes it helps to keep tubeless tyres in place

**byron** · 24th February 2007, 11:18 AM

Originally Posted by wovenrovings

Ok so it seems that the general opinion is that 110/county steelies will hold the air but don't have the retaining ridge in the bead which you are supposed to have to run tubeless. Also disco rims are probably strong enough but legality it in debate.

Is the idea of the bead to keep the seal on the bead at low pressures or hard cornering.

As I've ALWAYS understood it, these beads on the rim is what makes the rim what they used to call [in the mid sixties, when they became compulsory( suppsedly) a SAFETY RIM

....i.e. they kept the tyre on the rim in case of loss of air -either slowly or even hopefully in case of a blowout.

So have I been wrong all along?.......I thought it was the fact that the rims were rivetted and thus could have slow leaks in them that made tubes neccessary.........both on the Defender rims AND the early Range Rover (Ro-Style) rims.

**JDNSW** · 24th February 2007, 12:37 PM

Originally Posted by byron

As I've ALWAYS understood it, these beads on the rim is what makes the rim what they used to call [in the mid sixties, when they became compulsory( suppsedly) a SAFETY RIM

....i.e. they kept the tyre on the rim in case of loss of air -either slowly or even hopefully in case of a blowout.

So have I been wrong all along?.......I thought it was the fact that the rims were rivetted and thus could have slow leaks in them that made tubes neccessary.........both on the Defender rims AND the early Range Rover (Ro-Style) rims.

"Safety" rims were, as you indicate, introduced in the sixties. Somewhere along the line they became compulsory for use with tubeless tyres, although there have been many cars with tubeless tyres and without this extra ledge. Offroad vehicles have often avoided the use of these, as they make tyre changing with hand tools more difficult, particularly with detachable side or split wheels.

The leakage question is a separate one - rivetted wheels cannot be relied on to keep air in (athough often they do - I bought a S2 a couple of years ago that had tubeless tyres fitted - two of them were still inflated after it had been derelict for over ten years!), but also rims not designed to use tubeless tyres may not have had enough care taken on the finish of the bead seating to ensure a seal either.

John

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