diff pinion help

**worraps** · 2nd March 2007, 10:35 PM

hi guys just a quick query i have shreaded the rear rubber donut again on my disco no biggy just replace it again bit sad after only 10k kms tho however due to vibration on the rear tailshaft m pinion has developed a leak so i need to change it however checking the haynes manual i can't seem to find instructions on doing it so i am wondering if somebody could help out with a quick guide on how to change it if it's anything like my old jackaroo its just a matter removing tailshaft undoing pinion flange nut and washer then poping out pinion replacing it and the reverse to put back together but would like to make sure as i only have tomorrow to get this done and one more question is there anydifference in changing the front seal as it's had a slow weap for a while as always guys thanks heaps for any help

worraps

**D110V8D** · 2nd March 2007, 10:49 PM

Get rid of the rubber donut drive shaft.

Replace with a UJ type. Save yourself alot of heartache.

Pinion seal should be straight forward as you describe, although I havent done a d2 yet but I imagine they're the same as early RR.

Some one please correct me if I'm wrong!

**D110V8D** · 2nd March 2007, 10:53 PM

Whoops.....not a D2.......D1! No worries. Easy peasy...Japaneasy.

Undo nut on pinion, remove flange, pull the seal out, check flange for grooves/wear on sealing surface, replace seal, replace flange, do it up tight.

Drive it into the ground!

**worraps** · 2nd March 2007, 11:07 PM

hi ya mick was hoping for a reply like that yeah i am very tempted at doing the uj conversion however i am unsure on what is need and where to sorce parts to do it also dose it work better with a lifted truck then the dougnut i will tackle the seals 2morrow gonna be a busy day have a manifold gasket to change on a rangie my donut and seals and a transfercase problem on a s3swb no front drive to shaft new gb installed and transfer case was working b4 it got changed over <<<any ideas lol but thanks for your help its most apreciated

british4wd · 3rd March 2007, 07:43 AM

It is not as easy as a normal diff seal. There is a guide bush for the donut in the middle of the diff flange which has to be removed to access the diff pinion flange nut. This bush is very tight, it can rust in, and needs a special puller to remove it. You will most probably have to go to a workshop that has this tool.
Alan

**Bush65** · 3rd March 2007, 07:50 AM

You don't pull the pinion out to replace the seal.

But you do have to remove the pinion flange to be able to replace the old seal.

Removing the pinion flange is not so easy with the rubber donut joint.

A bush to centre the rubber donut, is pressed into the front of the pinion flange. This bush must be removed to be able to access the nut that retains the flange on the pinion. And this can be difficult.

When converting the rubber donut joint with a conventional u-joint, we usually resort to make a couple of cuts in the flange with an angle grinder, to remove the bush.

To convert to a conventional u-joint, you will need:
A rangie (or equivalent) rear tail shaft.
A fine spline pinion flange.
A bush, which goes behind the pinion flange, to suit the new flange. This bush is longer than that for the rubber donut joint.

natanchris · 3rd March 2007, 08:44 AM

Just done the UJ conversion on my D1. My rubber donut started to develop cracks after one trip up some steep stacks. Pinion flange was about $60 from my landy man, and took my tailshaft to a driveshaft bloke and he cut the old yoke off and welded a new one on with a UJ yoke for $100 balanced. I supplied the Uni as I had a new one lying around. Only bugger is getting the centring spigot for the rubber donut out of the diff pinion. You can get a bolt (high tensile, Unbrako etc but GOOD quality) then use a tube and washers as a spacer and screw the spigot out.
I was lucky that I'd had my pinion seal done not so long ago so it came out relatively easily, but if you can't get it out, and you're converting to UJ's anyway, weld a BIG bolt on the end and use that and a nut and washers etc as a puller.
Hope this helps, cheers Chris.

**worraps** · 3rd March 2007, 09:39 AM

thanks guys nothing is ever as straight forward as i hope but still should be managable i iwill reply back this arvo with how i go thanks for teh tips

**jimbo110** · 3rd March 2007, 11:23 AM

http://www.discoweb.org/rotoconversion/index.htm

how to do the conversion

**worraps** · 4th March 2007, 01:12 AM

hi jimbo thanks for your reply re the how to looks easy enough

one question tho does anybody know anywhere in oz to buy a stock rear uni tail shaft and the other parts ie the flange and the spacer?? any help on this ould be great as i don't have the first clue on tailshafts uni's ect thanks guys a prefabed kit would be great lol

\
in udate to working on cartoday started on the s3 swb no front drive after a bit of pulling aprt we discovered that the linkage on the lowrange selector was placed behind teh sliding gear so was a nice simple fix taking out the 2 hours trying to get the output cover of teh transfer box back on but lets just not talk about that.......
\
i got around to my disco and low and behold u guys were right u think i could that damn guide pin out beat it with a bfh god knows how many times i sware it smiled and laughed at me so i cleaned up where it was leaking replaced teh donut and checked teh oil level ground and oil was still at the level of teh bung so its more slight seapige than a leak so foor teh moment it can wait till i either have to do it or i replace teh doughynut with a uni set up all in all was a productive day tho and it's always good to get dirty at least the truck is ready for clean uo australia day i will be heading of to beerburrum sf as part of teh lrocb so hopefully should be a good day once again all thanks for your time and input it's most apreciated

worraps

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