Thread: 300tdi no start

Loose and/or dirty spade connector to the starter solenoid on top of the starter motor.
Happens to me sometimes. Same conditions.
Remedy: On a cold engine, remove turbo inlet hose, with right hand manoevure around back of starter solenoid, remove spade connector. Clean male side on starter with steel wool, spray somthing (pref contact cleaner, but wd40 will do) into female connector. And, if you have suitable long nose pliers, give it a bit of a tighten up.

Thanks for reply Langy. Will do that first thing in the morning.

this is getting to be a common prob, I think.
There was a similar post in November mine has done it a couple of times, the last was in october when I was in Bendigo, after a few mins it started, strange must be the landrover gemlins reacting to cold.

john

Mine sometimes doesn't start when it's hot. The usual scenario is driving it on a warm day, and then let it sit for a little while. 20 minutes maybe. Then it won't start, but I just turn the key back and forth and it starts within about 5-10 turns.

I've been told it could be a number of things some of which are:
1. Starter solenoid. Not on mine - an auto elec replaced it for me ($180) and it still happens occasionaly (no more or less often). I asked him to replace it, so it's not's his fault it didn't fix anything.
2. Bad earth connections. Make sure all the earth connections are clean and tight.
3. Not enough voltage getting to the start wire on the starter solenoid. This could be because the wires used could be better and they wire around everywhere before they get to the solenoid. Resulting in voltage drop so the solenoid doesn't activate (if that's the right term). Solution to this is use the current wire that goes to the solenoid to trigger a relay, and run a good quality wire direct from the battery to the relay and starter solenoid. So then you'll always have good voltage to the solenoid.

I think the reason mine has problems after 20 minutes or so is that the heat from the turbo (directly above the starter) soaks into the starter and this seems to affect it. I have heard this used to be a common problem with older XE falcons (certainly happened to my father's years ago - though obviously not from a turbo).

Anyway, apart from changing the solenoid a few years ago, I've done nothing about it because it always starts quickly enough and it only happens very rarely. (Edit: Actually I did do what Langy suggested above - I made it a nice tight fit and soldered on a new connector).

Pete

Originally Posted by JohnE

this is getting to be a common prob, I think.
There was a similar post in November mine has done it a couple of times, the last was in october when I was in Bendigo, after a few mins it started, strange must be the landrover gemlins reacting to cold.

john

how funny reacting to the cold these cars are built for the uk for - temps

My problem definately wasn't from the cold. 35 degree brissy day, aircon on and had just been driving winding, hilly roads. Thanks for all posts.
Tony

I had this happen to me.
It was diagnosed as a voltage drop to the starter. Auto elec fitted a relay to the starter and its been fine since.
He said it was a common problem with Landys and Toyotas and relays were now commonly fitted as standard.
Having the starter so close to the heat from the turbo seems like a dumb idea, BTW.

The problem is more due to the age of the wiring, ignition switch and starter solonoid.

Lucas ignition switches have a tendancey to fail from high current draw dew to corrosion of wiring, connectors and switch contacts.

Fitting a relay definatly will fix the problem as it takes bugger all current to trip the relay though it only a cover up of a deeper problem and I would be checking resistance with an ohms meter on the wiring and switch when you do it as with resistance comes heat and with heat comes short circuits and then comes fire.

It will also just stop working ine day when the switch craps it self.