Thread: 200tdi Rebuild

You can get stuff called engine assembly lube from CRC the stuff i have has moly graphite in it as well

Loctite on the gears will be a good thing providing you never want to take them off yourself, ask the poor bloke who had to rebuild the engine I had to rebuid while at ALTC....

dont put any powder based oil on the bearings, including moly or graphite while doing the rebuild. IF your going to be doing it quickly (less than one day from starting the rebuild to starting the engine) using a 20/50wt oil will suffice. If your going slow something more akin to 80/90 would be the go. If your putting it in storage (week or more from bearing assembly to starting) then something really heavy is what your after 85/140wt or thicker.

after youve dont the back bearing contact/bearing spread tests FFS make sure that the back of the bearing shells on the crank and conrod mains are clean and dry prior to assembley and then film the oil over them and into the gallery holes.

Your end float is withing tolerance but from memory the range is .05 to .15mm your nearer the outer tolerance and as such should be able to get the appropriate shims to get it back down. Not critical but a nice to do, DO NOT go under tolerance on the float, bad things happen.


Best of luck with the build and feel free to drop a call/message if you need help./

Another tip: (Sort of)

I'm not sure what sort of rear main oil seal they have on the 200tdi - but on the 300 it is a one piece in it's own mount. You may have noticed some months ago a thread on this topic and the complaint of an oil leak fom that area. As far as I & others can tell, the gasket between the seal housing and the block isn't all that good, and it allows seepage which appears exactly at the joint of block and transmission adaptor. Pay attention to sealing that and the transadaptor to the block with silicone, otherwise you may end up with an annoying oil leak about a week after assembly.

As one who has been thru the woodruff keyway saga, I can say that gluing the pulleys to the crank isn't a good idea. You may have to one day replace the inner crank seal, and it would make a difficult job impossible. By all means clean out the threaded hole in the crank, use a normal strengh anerobic loctite and maybe add a 2mm washer to the bolt so it dosen't bottom out, but figure that after you've been through this you'll want to check how the woodruff key is going 2 years from now.

another tip for rebuilding engines......fill the oil pump with petrolleum jelly before assembly......

this way it is nice and primed so you will have oil pressure asap in a new motor.....when you need it most........





(NO......NOT aeroplane jelly.....PETROLLEUM jelly......as in vaselline......)

Thanks for the reply,
What other option other than the Loctite is available, will the Loctite break with a gear puller or break down with a solvent ??????


Dave good to see you back.

Originally Posted by Lucas

Hi,
I have finally got the crank back after being stuffed around for weeks.
The crank was ground and welded and a new woodruff slot cut (0.5mm too shallow ). All up the crank cost $160.00 to repair and other than the woodruff slot it not a bad job.

Now to the rebuild stage, someone mentioned to use engine honey to lubricate the new bearings with prior to rebuild, will normal engine oil do ?.

I am thinking about locking both the crank shaft timing gear and harmonic balancer to the crank shaft using Loctite Shaft Fit 19377 to try to reduce the risk of a reoccurance. Has anyone had previous expirence with this product.

I have checked the shaft end float using a dial test indicator and have














about 0.12mm against a maximum of 0.15mm can this cause a problem ?.

Are there any snags I need to watch out for ???.

My manual states 'Use locktite on Cranckshaft/harmonic balancer interface and harmonic balancer retaining bolt thread'.

Er 90 gear oil is the same thickness as 50 engine oil. The measurement scales are different.

I would use assembly lube as sold by any parts store.
Regards Philip A