Thread: Defender charge rate

Sounds like your alternator is dead. I assume the charge light isn't coming up on the dash since you didn't mention it but maybe your alternator isn't entirely dead but just on its way out. I don't know what would cause that.
Maybe it is just the brushes aren't contacting properly. That sounds valid since it jumps to 13v and then drops back to 12v.


I just had my D1 alternator apart and it is fine after 175k. I just changed the bearings.

dont discount the battery......how old is it.....


have you tried to charge the battery up with a charger....then let it sit for a day or two and see if holds charge.....?

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

dont discount the battery......how old is it.....


have you tried to charge the battery up with a charger....then let it sit for a day or two and see if holds charge.....?

After a couple of days of frustration I thought it was the factory battery and switched everything over to the new 2 week old battery. The problem stayed

Originally Posted by Utemad

Sounds like your alternator is dead. I assume the charge light isn't coming up on the dash since you didn't mention it but maybe your alternator isn't entirely dead but just on its way out. I don't know what would cause that.
Maybe it is just the brushes aren't contacting properly. That sounds valid since it jumps to 13v and then drops back to 12v.


I just had my D1 alternator apart and it is fine after 175k. I just changed the bearings.

I think it's the alt or the reg too. The car is not 2 years old and only has 22k on it so it's a surprise but better now than when we're **really** remote.

Hi Captain, time for a trip to an auto electrician.

Even at idle, you should be getting around 14 volts and the problem is quick for an auto electrician to detect.

If you can, charge both batteries with a battery charger but leave the SC40 disconnected until you get the alternator/regulator checked, so you won’t discharge the auxiliary battery.

Cheers and let us know how you get on.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Captain, time for a trip to an auto electrician.

Even at idle, you should be getting around 14 volts and the problem is quick for an auto electrician to detect.

If you can, charge both batteries with a battery charger but leave the SC40 disconnected until you get the alternator/regulator checked, so you won’t discharge the auxiliary battery.

Cheers and let us know how you get on.

Just been and seen the battery store and the auto electrician. Both batteries test ok, and the auto sparky took one look at the charge voltage and said there was a problem. I'll get it to the dealer next week as it should be a warranty job.

I'll leave the second battery and sc40 disconnected until they have sorted out the charging problem.

Well the car has had a day at the dealers and has emerged with a new alternator. On the drive home the volts looked better. It was a bit hard to say though as the battery was toasty charged.

I have hooked the two up and the traxide again and I've got the inverter giving the system some curry as we speak. I have some errands to do tomorrow so we'll see how it goes.

this is why I LOVE the new dc rated low voltage clamp meters...

plug that bad boy over the alternator charge wire, put the leads on the battery or use a second meter to read the battery voltage...

Ive got diagnosing start/charging system faults down to under 3 minutes with one of them.... (still book up an hour on the mil paperwork tho)

Pity the only one Ive seen is on the workshop floor at amberly but when I find the civvie supplier details I'll post em up.