Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Tie rod ends

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    2780
    Posts
    8,257
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Tie rod ends

    I recently bought a pile of tie rod ends to replace the lot on the Defender. At the shop I was offered three options, two of a higher price, and a third - QH brand - considerably cheaper. Fella selling them told me most go for one of the more expensive brands, but neither of us could work out what the issue was with the cheapies. I eventually decided on the cheapies because the came with a zerk for a grease gun in place and the others didn't.

    It seemed to me at the time that the ability to grease the tie rod ends would be a bloody good thing and make up for a possible quality difference.

    Got around to doing the back two this afternoon, no more than the usual trouble getting the old ones off or the new ones on to the rod. Problems started when I tried to do the buggers up.

    The cheapie tie rod ends come with Nyloc nuts not castellated nuts and split pins. This makes it bloody difficult to get the nut going at all, I ended up with all kinds of spinning and swearing and ugly things holding the shaft still while I tighted it up the small amount that is required. Of course, the only place to hold the shaft is right where the boot wants to sit so a little bit difficult to hold it still without butchering the boot or dropping the boot retaining spring off the boot.

    Now it could just be I got one dodgy one out of the three that I bought. The front tie rod end went on fine, the other rear one spun a bit, but had enough stiffness to get it sorted, so it was only the one out of three that was a real problem. I can't really think of a good way to get around it, I thought of replacing the Nyloc with two nuts and some Loctite, but that would just cause problems at the other end, although I wouldn't be too concerned about butchery getting them off, but why make future trouble for yourself if you don't have to?

    So, seems to me that the more expensive tie rod ends without the zerks, but with the castellated nuts and splits pins are the go.

    Cheers
    Simon

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,500
    Total Downloaded
    0
    the quality of the metal would be the start point, but that depends on whats the difference between cheap and expensive....
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    2780
    Posts
    8,257
    Total Downloaded
    0
    QH = Quinton Hazell - http://www9.qha.com/uk/default.htm

    They were about half the price of the others.

    Cheers
    Simon

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Two Rocks WA
    Posts
    1,361
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Had this happen to me many times. I put a jack underneath the tie rod end and force it harder into the taper then tighten it up. I have used QH before and had no issues with them.
    Brad
    Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
    LROCWA Ex member 23 years
    1971 Series 2A
    2004 Discovery2a V8 Auto
    2003 Discovery2a TD5 Manual
    1982 4door man (sadly now gone)
    1989 Vogue auto
    2011 TDV8 Vogue
    What would life be without a Rangie?



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    2780
    Posts
    8,257
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Bradtot View Post
    Had this happen to me many times. I put a jack underneath the tie rod end and force it harder into the taper then tighten it up. I have used QH before and had no issues with them.
    Brad
    On mine the taper feeds from the top, so not much hope of getting the jack in to push.

    Hope the tapers fit from the top.

    Cheers
    Simon

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Two Rocks WA
    Posts
    1,361
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Simon same principal use the jack to push it down using part of the body as the stopper, or use the jack base as the pusher and the telescopic part of the jack to lever on the body or chassis, u need the right size bottle jack though, as I say I have done it this way many times, I have even got a big lever and used that to force it into the taper while I tighten.
    Have fun
    Brad
    Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
    LROCWA Ex member 23 years
    1971 Series 2A
    2004 Discovery2a V8 Auto
    2003 Discovery2a TD5 Manual
    1982 4door man (sadly now gone)
    1989 Vogue auto
    2011 TDV8 Vogue
    What would life be without a Rangie?



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Padstow NSW
    Posts
    4,501
    Total Downloaded
    0
    clean the tapers first, lightly sand the tie rod taper(could have some rust protection stuff on it) and clean the hub taper(usually has dirt/rust in it)

    the nyloc nuts are ok but i have seen afew come of after the nyloc gets old..

    your old castle nuts might be the same thread if they are screw them on and drill a small hole for the split pin.

    cheers phil

    ps. there is nothing wrong with QH products they have been used in oz for ages!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    2780
    Posts
    8,257
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yeah, that'd do it. Must have been getting too close to dinner last night.

    Thanks
    Simon

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,972
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Getting the Nylocks off is more problematic than getting them on. I find that gripping the shaft (at the rubber boot) with some pointy nose vice grips is enough to stop the tie rod spinning when it's time to take it off.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    2780
    Posts
    8,257
    Total Downloaded
    0
    After a rest and some food I discovered a LEVER! And a jack. Made it all much easier.

    Fixed my grease gun at the same time. Why are grease guns so hateful?

    Grease guns and that irritating bugger of a thing that injects oil into the diffs are my least favourite.

    Cheers
    Simon.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!