the quality of the metal would be the start point, but that depends on whats the difference between cheap and expensive....
I recently bought a pile of tie rod ends to replace the lot on the Defender. At the shop I was offered three options, two of a higher price, and a third - QH brand - considerably cheaper. Fella selling them told me most go for one of the more expensive brands, but neither of us could work out what the issue was with the cheapies. I eventually decided on the cheapies because the came with a zerk for a grease gun in place and the others didn't.
It seemed to me at the time that the ability to grease the tie rod ends would be a bloody good thing and make up for a possible quality difference.
Got around to doing the back two this afternoon, no more than the usual trouble getting the old ones off or the new ones on to the rod. Problems started when I tried to do the buggers up.
The cheapie tie rod ends come with Nyloc nuts not castellated nuts and split pins. This makes it bloody difficult to get the nut going at all, I ended up with all kinds of spinning and swearing and ugly things holding the shaft still while I tighted it up the small amount that is required. Of course, the only place to hold the shaft is right where the boot wants to sit so a little bit difficult to hold it still without butchering the boot or dropping the boot retaining spring off the boot.
Now it could just be I got one dodgy one out of the three that I bought. The front tie rod end went on fine, the other rear one spun a bit, but had enough stiffness to get it sorted, so it was only the one out of three that was a real problem. I can't really think of a good way to get around it, I thought of replacing the Nyloc with two nuts and some Loctite, but that would just cause problems at the other end, although I wouldn't be too concerned about butchery getting them off, but why make future trouble for yourself if you don't have to?
So, seems to me that the more expensive tie rod ends without the zerks, but with the castellated nuts and splits pins are the go.
Cheers
Simon
the quality of the metal would be the start point, but that depends on whats the difference between cheap and expensive....
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
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If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
QH = Quinton Hazell - http://www9.qha.com/uk/default.htm
They were about half the price of the others.
Cheers
Simon
Had this happen to me many times. I put a jack underneath the tie rod end and force it harder into the taper then tighten it up. I have used QH before and had no issues with them.
Brad![]()
Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
LROCWA Ex member 23 years
1971 Series 2A
2004 Discovery2a V8 Auto
2003 Discovery2a TD5 Manual
1982 4door man (sadly now gone)
1989 Vogue auto
2011 TDV8 Vogue
What would life be without a Rangie?
Simon same principal use the jack to push it down using part of the body as the stopper, or use the jack base as the pusher and the telescopic part of the jack to lever on the body or chassis, u need the right size bottle jack though, as I say I have done it this way many times, I have even got a big lever and used that to force it into the taper while I tighten.
Have fun
Brad
Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
LROCWA Ex member 23 years
1971 Series 2A
2004 Discovery2a V8 Auto
2003 Discovery2a TD5 Manual
1982 4door man (sadly now gone)
1989 Vogue auto
2011 TDV8 Vogue
What would life be without a Rangie?
clean the tapers first, lightly sand the tie rod taper(could have some rust protection stuff on it) and clean the hub taper(usually has dirt/rust in it)
the nyloc nuts are ok but i have seen afew come of after the nyloc gets old..
your old castle nuts might be the same thread if they are screw them on and drill a small hole for the split pin.
cheers phil
ps. there is nothing wrong with QH products they have been used in oz for ages!
Yeah, that'd do it. Must have been getting too close to dinner last night.
Thanks
Simon
Getting the Nylocks off is more problematic than getting them on. I find that gripping the shaft (at the rubber boot) with some pointy nose vice grips is enough to stop the tie rod spinning when it's time to take it off.
After a rest and some food I discovered a LEVER! And a jack. Made it all much easier.
Fixed my grease gun at the same time. Why are grease guns so hateful?
Grease guns and that irritating bugger of a thing that injects oil into the diffs are my least favourite.
Cheers
Simon.
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