Thread: V8 Discovery Fuel Pump Prob

You think our pumps are dear? Read this thread: http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/s...hp't=30336

Ron

Just contacted REPCO Adelaide re availability of the Bosch 0580 464 070 just in case & doing my homework.
Still available, & seems it suits a whole list of vehicles inc. BMWs, Peugots, Holden VN V6 but not Volvos
. Unfortunately, Land Rover are not in that list (would have been nice ) but sounds like it will go ok.

Price $212 inc. GST.

WOW
Weird, exactly a year ago the wife and I set of on a driving holiday before #1 was born. Car stopped about 10 km outside Bingara NSW. Fuel pump died. Waited in town for 3 days till we got a replacement delivered and replaced the pump. 3 days in bingara , a holiday to remember. Had some intermittent trouble with the new one for a day before I jiggled the connector on the pump to get it working, just like outlaw mentioned above. Went to an auto electrician to put a new plug on it, but he said he didn’t have anything turned around and walked away like a rude pig. Asked the apprentice where the nearest dick smith store was as I was going to bypass the plug and put in some jump wires as I wanted some reliability as we were going to Fraser Island on the trip. The apprentice ended up doing it for $25.
And has not played up since. This reminds me that I need to seal the joins and replace the cover above the pump
cost about $300 from a place called 4wd spares (or something like that).
In my opionion id pay the bucks for a new one and have peace of mind that no hose clamp is going to let go or something like that.

Chaps, I recall someone telling me that there's an issue with the early pumps which featured the 12V connector fixed on the top surface of the pump mounting plate alongside the fuel outlet/return.

Allegedly, if the rear floor sags a little (due to carrying heavy loads, I guess) the inspection cover can chafe the connector which can cause the plastic insulation on the connector to wear away allowing the bodywork to short the supply to the pump and blow the fuse.

It's also possible that, before causing catastrophic failure, the same mechanism could cause the connector to loose tension in its contacts from being moved around as the bodywork flexes and the connection would then become intermitant.

I believe that later pump assemblies have a flying lead out of the plate which can lie out of harms way solving this problem. It may be an option to (carefully) attach flying leads to the older pumps and remote mount the connection before they fail in this way. Water-proofed Utilux 1/4" spade connectors should do the trick (make the +12V male and the ground female on the pump to reduce the risk of reverse connecting it in the future).

Sorry I don't have a photo to illustrate but it may be visible on one of the photos on the rangerovers.net website with the details on repairing the pump. My pump has a small round plastic housing on top of the plate with the leads exiting the side to a remote connector.

Ironically the first thing for the floor to rub on now is the fuel line connections. Is this an improvement I ask myself?

Originally Posted by 4bee

Source a Bosch 0580 464 070 intank pump. (REPCO) Use LR pump carrier.

This is a pic of the pump mentioned. It appears to be an external pump not internal.
When I called Autobarn they said that the VN Commodore had two pumps. A low pressure in tank pump and a high pressure external pump.

Ashdown's has this pump for $250 +GST but it would appear it is the wrong one???
Bosch just confirmed this is definately an external pump.

Just got off the phone to Bosch and they said the part number for the VN V6 in tank pump is F000TE1772. Pump only with parts (strainer I guess).
Can anyone confirm if this is the pump they used to replace the intank Land Rover pump?

well I just went and bought the VN pump. Only $106 from REPCO and was also quoted $110 from Coventry.
It is called a BOSCH Premium Fuel Pump. According to Bosch's phone people it fits a lot of different makes but Land Rover isn't listed as being one of them.
Part No: F000TE1772

It looks like it will fit alright. It came with a whole bunch of stuff like hose clamps and rubbers etc that no doubt are to suit a VN.

Now my question for the minute is what is the go with pressures? I forgot to check them before I left.

The LR 3.9 RAVE CD says it requires 2.4-2.6 BAR (34-37 PSI).
The Bosch unit is 3.8 BAR (55.1 PSI).

I assume this is too much but last time I looked into fuel pumps for a different car I was told that even though the pump was rated too high that under operating conditions it wouldn't actually be that high.

What does the brains trust think?

Thats why you have a fuel pressure regulator ( on the rail in D1 and in tank on D2) and a return line to the tank.
The pressure in the injectors is kept at AFAIK a constant 2.4 bar relative to the internal manifold pressure/vacuum .
The excess is bled off and returned to the tank. In this way the combination of ECU and pressure regulator ensures correct A/F ratio at all altitudes and atmospheric pressures.
Regards Philip A

at one stage our (previous)B6 mazda turbo had the ability under full boost to shut down return and switch of regulaters
so all pressure went to the injectors,,( still not sure how that was done,,,)

but hey,, when you gotta go---