Reply With QuoteYou need to lock the crank at the damper.....
I made a tool for this and to get that extra leverage i used a 6 foot bar....
it then hits the chassis and wont allow the crank to turn.
Crank shaft pulley / damper bolt
On refitting the engine I was only able to get the pulley bolt up to 200Nm against the specified 340. Before I go to far I want to get it up to correct torque.
The manual refers to a special tool that is used to hold the damper in place while torqing the bolt.
How have others got around the tool, photos would be good.
TopicToaster
You need to lock the crank at the damper.....
I made a tool for this and to get that extra leverage i used a 6 foot bar....
it then hits the chassis and wont allow the crank to turn.
Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.comDid you shorten the bolt so it doesn't bottom out in the crankshaft nose?
Ron
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
RoverLord
5th gear, high range, wheels chocked, park brake on hard and someone standing on the brakes...
unless you have a grey box of evil then you need one of ^ them or you need to take a plug out, wind that cyl to about 25 degrees BTDC on compression, fill the cyl with oil and put the plug back in.
Remove the plug prior to starting and run it over on the starter (after turning it by hand to ease most of the oil out) with the engine off before you try to stat it for real to sort out any problems.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Originally Posted by sclarke
I like it
unless you have a grey box of evil then you need one of ^
Dave,
What the, is a grey box of evil.
Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.comAn automaticunless you have a grey box of evil then you need one of ^
Dave,
What the, is a grey box of evil.
Ron
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Now I get it, its a manual.
RoverLord
top gear high, brakes on hard... I'll be impressed if you cant get 500nm plus on it.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
SubscriberI do not recognise the engine in those photos but on a 300Tdi the front pulley has a deep recess of 40mm or so. The tool I made looks the same just it has the round bit as more of a short tube with lever attached to top and the plate with holes ar the bottom.
Use is the same.
To undo i use 27mm impact socket 3/4 drive on long bar against the chassis and just touch the starter and presto! it is loose
As a bonus the 27mm socket fits my wheel nuts too!
I still needed to brace with the tool against chassis and hang on a 3 foot length of tube on the 600mm long bar on the socket then pull hard on bar while I braced against the front wing! And it was still a good pull and i am no lightweight
Cheers
james
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