Thread: Anti-sieze on engine parts.

Originally Posted by tdi130dualcab

Hi All,

I am in the process of replacing the water pump on the TD5. I have had a hell of a time undoing some of the 10mm bolts holding in the centrivical oil filter. I am always worried about stripping threads on alloy blocks etc.

My question is does any-one use anti-sieze compounds when assembling components to the block etc?

Cheers

Depends on the parts....

Non critical, ancillary type stuff... Probably.

Critical stuff, e.g. head bolts.... No.

Dunno the TD5 well enough to comment on this one though.

M

When ever I pull a motor down or bits and pieces off, anti seize is always used. Head bolts are a little different but I always use grease, When you do apply either dont use too much as you can cause pressure build up that may give you a false reading with tension wrench.

Thanks
Baz

Originally Posted by tdi130dualcab

My question is does any-one use anti-sieze compounds when assembling components to the block etc?

Usually only on stuff around water jackets, e.g., thermostat bolts, water pump, etc.

Ron

I think it is a good idea with all threads into cast iron or ally, but as stated before, you only need a small amount to work effectively.

As for the water pump, I would be removing the coolant/ power steerring/ AC bracket on the Td5, not the centrifugal filter housing. Mainly because it is easier, and that there is a O ring between the bracket and the block water passage that should be replaced due to it becoming hard and perished thereby leaking later on, causing you to remove all the above anyway to replace it. I always replace this O ring when I do water pumps on these.

JC

Loctite Anti-seize has a co-efficient of friction equal to oil when used on threaded fasteners, as do Loctite locking compounds. The torque figures for lightly oiled fasteners can be used without worry. In the heavy truck, mining & construction equipment workshops, anti-seize is used on almost everything except fasteners that need to use a sealant such as Holden head bolts which go into the water. Don't use it on internal power train parts, of course. Don't use copper based anti-seize on aluminium. Nickel anti-seize has a higher temperature tolerance than silver and is thus the correct one to use on exhaust components. I still use it on almost everything I suspect might have to come apart again. Always use it on wheel studs.

Gday i use anti seize on just about every thing and love the stuff as for in alloy i think its a must especialy were heat and coolant / water are concerned as it stops the electrolasis between the alloy and the steel bolts which is speed up by the heat

Thanks Folks,

I was going to re-assemble using anti-sieze because of the probs un-doing the bolts in the first place.

If you remove the centrivical oil filter, the job of replacing the water pump iwsn't too bad.

I always replace the seals every time I undo one, i.e. for any-one else's info, if you repalce your water pump, get a set of seals (2 gaskets for the drain tube, and 1 o-ring for the seal to the block) for the centrivical filter to save time!!.

Cheers and thanks for the feedback.

Originally Posted by tdi130dualcab

Thanks Folks,

I was going to re-assemble using anti-sieze because of the probs un-doing the bolts in the first place.

If you remove the centrivical oil filter, the job of replacing the water pump iwsn't too bad.

I always replace the seals every time I undo one, i.e. for any-one else's info, if you repalce your water pump, get a set of seals (2 gaskets for the drain tube, and 1 o-ring for the seal to the block) for the centrivical filter to save time!!.

Cheers and thanks for the feedback.

I always retap all threads and run Die nuts over every bolt removed in and engine rebuild (except main and big-end bolts and nuts) and use appropriate Anti-Seize lube and run every bolt in by finger tension only, if they wont screw to full depth of thread by hand, repair or replace, Regards Frank.