Thread: How Useless is the Front Tow Point on a D2?

Ahhhhh I see said the blind man to the deaf woman. I stand corrected.

After some thought, (not a great deal)

i reckon i will weld the updated recovery point to the existing tow point and put the bolts through both.

Then you have the strength being transfered to the left and the right side of chassis rail and not just one side which in my opinion is the weakness of the 4x4 Intelligence recovery point

Opinions?

Proper strong front bumper and fit it with a Hayman Reece tow point. I like the ability to pull, with force if needed, from the front. Yeah, just fit a tow hitch to a solidly built front crusher.

Shorty.

You can also use an equalising strap with the above style of point as well, having one on each chassis rail.
I have a similar type on my D2, and have been yanked, snatched and winched with them.

I have seen the factory 'tow points' go, and they are definetely not safe enough for anything other than a flat tow or tie down. LR state they are not rated for recovery or snatches.
As others have said, if you're doing any type of 4wding where you need to be recovered, I'd be losing the factory bumper, it will be lost or hinder you before that anyway.

Originally Posted by FenianEel

You can also use an equalising strap with the above style of point as well, having one on each chassis rail.
I have a similar type on my D2, and have been yanked, snatched and winched with them.

I have seen the factory 'tow points' go, and they are definetely not save enough for anything other than a flat tow or tie down. LR state they are not rated for recovery or snatches.
As others have said, if you're doing any type of 4wding where you need to be recovered, I'd be losing the factory bumper, it will be lost or hinder you before that anyway.

Its more a "its there just in case"

Originally Posted by shorty943

Proper strong front bumper and fit it with a Hayman Reece tow point. I like the ability to pull, with force if needed, from the front. Yeah, just fit a tow hitch to a solidly built front crusher.

Shorty.

But then the bumper/bullbar/haymanreece thing is still bolted to the car by the same bolts as these tow points!

I am interested to hear which part of the factory tow point fails? To me it looks sufficient enough (and I am an engineer, not that it makes me right, but just that I do have a knowledge of materials, tensile strength etc). I can see the rear ones are definately "tie down" only, but I would be happy using the front point, looks like 10mm rod, suficient welds, 2 x 3mm plate, bolted firmly to the chasis?

Originally Posted by Sequel

I am interested to hear which part of the factory tow point fails? To me it looks sufficieant enough (and I am an engineer, not that it makes me right, but just that I do have a knowlege of materials, tensile strength etc). I can see the rear ones are definately "tie down" only, but I would be happy using the front point, looks like 10mm rod, suficient welds, 2 x 3mm plate, bolted firmly to the chasis?

The only issue I have had with the original point was the bolts holding it in place. Changing these to a HT bolt was not expensive (when compared to the purchase and install price for 1 of the only rated recovery point in Aus for a D2) Personally I cannot see where the cost in the other types are considering they are not certified as rated. My arguement is why put a non rated recovery point on the front of the vehicle to void your insurance. Use the Land Rover one or fork out the big bickies