heated seats switch install

**Nigger** · 29th April 2007, 11:38 AM

I managed to pull the console apart and found out the gear know is NOT screwed on the hard (and expensive way)...grrrrrrrr, and I can now see where there are two cables ready to plug into the heated seat switches. Problem is as I have an D2a HSE the console is a single piece timber job and cutting the holes in it is pretty scary as the replacement piece of wood is a massive $1200. However after pulling it out I noticed there is a plastic panel pop riveted to the timber in which the electric window buttons snap into and there are also two spots for the heated seat switches also, great news. Problem is I have not seen a switch and I am not sure if it would be simply a matter of using the shape of the holes in the plastic panel pop riveted to the back of the timber as a template and just going for it as it seems the window switches have over sized holes allowing a small flange for the switch to sit on (see attatched). It looks like the holes for the heated seat switches are didderet on the plastic as they are deep sided and with this I am praying they fit without the oversize holes in the wood. You will see in the pictures that the plastic panel appears to be pop riveted to the wood (strange way of fastening to wood) and I am a tad worried about drilling them out as they would enevitably never go back together properly.
Can anyone shed any light on this to assist me? I have placed yellow pop up ballons on the pdf that when you roll your mouse over the notes should pop up. That's the theory by with my limited IT skills the execution may be a different thing all together...........

**ladas** · 29th April 2007, 12:00 PM

See attached photos, the holes in the wood are quite a bit larger than the holes in the plastic backing , as the switch head recesses into it.

I'll measure the holes and let you know the h x w

.............but i wouldn't have thought it would be too difficult to cut out, if you take it very slowly and carefully.

Oh yes that extra little wire, that is for the interlock solenoid that is fitted to some vehicles in certain regions (japan and usa springs to mind) the ones for AU didn't have it fitted. so just leave it where it is.

**ladas** · 29th April 2007, 12:07 PM

The holes in the wood are

33 mm high x 28 mm wide

**Nigger** · 29th April 2007, 12:25 PM

Thanks Ladas, yeh I was afraid that may be the case. I'm still not sure if my b@#$%cks are big enough to take this on without a decent template. One mistake and I'm up for $1200 nicker. I am still unsure also about drilling out the rivets that hold the plastic back plate to the timber piece. I can't imagine it would leave much meat on the timber side for refastening. i don't suppose you know of anyone who has written a D2a with heated seats off do you?

**ladas** · 29th April 2007, 12:31 PM

Originally Posted by ******

Thanks Ladas, yeh I was afraid that may be the case. I'm still not sure if my b@#$%cks are big enough to take this on without a decent template. One mistake and I'm up for $1200 nicker. I am still unsure also about drilling out the rivets that hold the plastic back plate to the timber piece. I can't imagine it would leave much meat on the timber side for refastening. i don't suppose you know of anyone who has written a D2a with heated seats off do you?

If you don't mind waiting for a bit, I need to take my centre console out, as I am fiddling with something else, and I can lay a template over the consule, and also take precise measurements...............

With regards to drilling out the rivets, it - in my view wouldn't be much of an issue as there is quite a bit of 'wood', so to fix it back in using short wood screws, but I would be tempted to drill small pilot holes first, as the so called wood (I think it's a laminate) might crack without pilot holes.

**Nigger** · 29th April 2007, 12:54 PM

Mate, that is an awsome suggestion! I recon I may just have the confidence with an accurate template like you have suggested. Probably need to drill loads of very small holes just inside the perimeter and carefully file up to the mark from the template. Probably take a few hours but sounds like it may just work. I guess if the rivets crap themselves there are pplanty of adhesive/sealants like sikaflex or even araldite that could allow me to glue it on if I had to.
Great idea mate, i'll PM you my e-mail address/postage address, whatever is best.

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