Thread: Clutch 200Tdi Defender

Vlad,

Sounds Pretty well right with a flywheel machining and a fork and spigot bush. The 200 Tdi defender is a little more work to get the box out of than a 300 Tdi, but I would only add about an hour on the 300Tdi time. At $88 per hour I would charge 8 hours .
The main advice I would give is that the clutch fork and spigot MUST be replaced, and that a Borg and Beck or AP kit is used. I have used Valeo and for some reason I had 2 shudder and had to replace both with AP kits. Now ok. ( I got really good at fitting Tdi clutches after that episode!!!!)

Do it right ONCE.

JC

JC, do you find engine out, or g/box-t/case out easier ?
Not that it really matters for when I have to do it, it'll be t/case out anyway as the input shaft seal and intermediate shaft O rings need replacing anyway, as does something on top of the R380 in the shifter region which is now leaking oil.
I'm waiting for it to happen as it's clicking over 220,000km now and it's original.

Hi Rick,
In a Fender 300Tdi definately easier gearbox out. Even easier with the transfer case off, in fact at 220K I would do the clutch when you do the TFcase O'rings. The main failures I get with Tdi clutches is a mechanical failure like the centre breaking out, the clutch fork pivot punching through, the pressure plate fingers wearing through, the pressure plate spring breaking, or the damper springs desintegrating. Unusually you get one where the friction plate is just worn out. Don't forget to replace the fork and spigot, and that leak you are speaking of, it may require a new shifter housing top bush/ seal. I'm sure you can buy them for the defender, as they ARE available for the disco R380, but these have a different shift housing etc.

JC