Thread: 300tdi vac pump in car fix.

Yes it is posable to remove the old rivets and replace with stainless bolts/nylock nuts whilst still on the block.
Followed Aces advice, but replaced the rivets before the seal blew out alltogether.
With some extra light, handy mirror and dremel multi tool + patience, I removed the rivets and replaced with stainles bolts/washers/nylock nuts one by one.
Now there is no air or oil leak, hope it lasts as long as takes me to get a full replacement, fingers crossed.

I did mine on Saturday. Wasn't too bad to remove with a small ratchet spanner.

Drilled rivets out for M5 stainless, hex head screws.

After cleaning the mating flanges and the seal ring, I applied a thin smear of Loctite 515 flange sealant to the flat face of the main body and to the bottom of the groove for the seal ring, in the cover.

Fitted the seal ring back into its groove, then bolted the cover up to the body.

I didn't worry about getting No 1 cyl on top dead centre before removing the vacuum pump, but once removed and the cam lobe was visible, I turned the motor (using starter with wire removed from stop solenoid) until the base of the lobe was facing the vacuum pump. This makes refitting the vacuum pump easier.

For me, I believe removing the pump first was better than doing it in situ.