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Ha, haha, BWAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by LandyAndy
:Rolling::clap2::Rolling::clap2::Rolling::clap2::R olling::clap2::Rolling::clap2::Rolling::clap2:
Now THATS funny!!!! Legendary statement!!!! Love it!!!
I can just see all the vacant stares coming from the other side of the counter and customers rolling around on the floor laughing there heads off!!
"You want who???? That knows about what?????"
Wait till I tell everyone at work tomorrow!!!!
Just replaced my injector loom. 2ND replacement for this disco, 230000ks.
I placed "Ultra Black gasket goo" on top of each injector plug so oil wont follow the wires into connector. On the main plug, I popped the cap off and fill with more goo, replaced cap and smoothed over the top to seal. I also made sure it sealed around the wires going in. Fingers crossed.
I think I've been lucky in that no (or very little) oil got into the main loom. There was none at the computer connector.
Now that I've had the tappet cover off the motor, I don't see why the top of injectors aren't accessed like spark plugs on a twin cam motor. This would have been easy to form into the cover and the loom would be outside.
After market could even do this I would think. Maybe the designer was into hot rods and liked the clean top look. Fail.:mad:
Davros the link takes me to one photo is there a thread showing what grade wires /loom you used. Also did you replace the multi plugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by davros
I'm a little concerned that if the "oil" has got into the main harness then replacing the injector harness still leaves oil in the main harness. So why not run an alternate injector harness(5 wires) directly to the ECU multi plug.
I gather the ECU plug can have its terminals removed and reinserted?
I am just a bystander here but what a great joke by Landrover. Who would ever believe owners oil in wiring complaints?Quote:
Just replaced my injector loom. 2ND replacement for this disco, 230000ks.
I placed "Ultra Black gasket goo" on top of each injector plug so oil wont follow the wires into connector
Anyway, back to the point.
It is my underestanding that the oil moves up inside the wires, ie along between and among the individual wires within their insulation. So Silastic will do no good at all.
I often wonder why somewone does not make up a junction outside the rocker cover with the wires terminating at a connection with solid terminals, so that the oil would drip out there, thus continuing an age old Land Rover tradition.
Regards Philip A
I mentioned this some years ago....Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
On my previous Rangie, I found clean oil on the floor on the driver's side. I traced it back and found it was seeping from a plug in the firewall. But why clean - and I mean clean? It looked like it was freshly poured from a new oil container. It didn't make sense.
I checked the other side of the firewall and there was dirty oil there. What was happening was the oil was seeping past the plug and leaving the carbon in the oil behind. The gap must have been microscopic to trap the carbon and only let the oi through. A bit like osmosis! :o
Ahh, only in a Land Rover will oil leak into the car. :D
Has any one thought of tinning each wire to slow the oil flow down between the wire strands? Would this stop or change the impedence?
Problem isnt in the wires, its where the pins seal in the socket in the head. Oil leaks past the seals and doen the pins and continues along the outside harness into the ECU.
New aftermarket harnesses contain the modified socket that eliminates the problem.
LOVEMYRANGIE,Quote:
Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE
Do you know which aftermarket harness has this fix applied (or who supplies them)?
Also, has Land Rover applied this fix or is their harness still the same as the problem models?
Cant remember where I got mine from but Paddocks in the UK as well as all good LR suppliers should have them. AMP who make the plug addressed the problem so should be standard now ad long as its the AMP plug on it.
Just found oil in my ECU plug.... :angry: Would a genuine part have the fix as of 2013? or do I need to go OS to source a fixed loom ?