Koni shocks long travel?

**modman** · 17th May 2007, 10:40 AM

how i solved the problem of longer shocks.
ridepro 80s front.
haultech slotted bushes.
100mm longer braided brake lines.
david.
(ps works real well

)

**HangOver** · 17th May 2007, 06:26 PM

Originally Posted by modman

how i solved the problem of longer shocks.
ridepro 80s front.
haultech slotted bushes.
100mm longer braided brake lines.
david.
(ps works real well

)

Can you notice the extra articulation when driving cross axeld, ie front left and rear right wheel is high.
100mm longer hoses seems a lot do you get anywhere near that in real terms?
I was just wondering if it's worth the swap?

**modman** · 17th May 2007, 07:16 PM

i'm never looking at the fender because i'm in it

for example in vids the body seems more balanced coming out of off camber creeks/gullies.
some people chase flex in the back end, but i've listened to bill larman a lot and prefer balance.
when my 110 was a ute/tray i had a sway bar ready to fit, just to force the front end to flex.

(friggen heavy a$$ end, steel tray)
i reckon a more balanced body can help even out/increase traction through all 4 wheels.
yes the brake lines were VERY tight so 100mm seemed ok

david.

**rick130** · 18th May 2007, 06:09 AM

forgot to add that Proven Products and Toperformance can modify, say a GU coil rear shock and cut off the bottom eye and weld on a pin for a nominal cost. This would then be a bolt in.
Both companies are good in this regard. Jeff at Proven has been very helpful over the years supplying advice and parts.

The new Koni models to suit the Lend Rovers, the 8240 series are more expensive to revalve as they are low pressure gas pressurised (IIRC, @ 80 psi), whereas the 82 series as still used on the Patrol and LC 80 series aren't and so are cheaper to re-valve and modify. I've reduced the low-mid speed bump valving on the 80 series fronts. If anyone is interested I have the appropriate foot valve # somewhere, although last time I just added the appropriate shims to the stack. (reduced the stack pre-load)

Also, if someone is getting their Koni's re-valved and you are going to do a lot of outback or corrugated roads at speed, ask whoever is doing it to use a high viscosity index damper fluid. The stock Koni fluid is pretty average IMO with a very low Viscosity Index (thins out badly at higher temps). Use something around a 26.7 cSt @ 40*C fluid with the highest VI you can find (eg. Silkolene Pro RSF 5wt has a VI of 372, I'm guessing, from the simple viscosity tests I've done that OE KOni fluid is only in the hundreds) DON'T go off the SAE viscosity range advertised on the bottle, it is next to useless. Anything around 26 cSt @ 40* is comparable at that temp to Koni fluid.
Using a high VI fluid will reduce the onset of fade.

**rick130** · 18th May 2007, 06:25 AM

Originally Posted by modman

i'm never looking at the fender because i'm in it

for example in vids the body seems more balanced coming out of off camber creeks/gullies.
some people chase flex in the back end, but i've listened to bill larman a lot and prefer balance.
when my 110 was a ute/tray i had a sway bar ready to fit, just to force the front end to flex.

(friggen heavy a$$ end, steel tray)
i reckon a more balanced body can help even out/increase traction through all 4 wheels.
yes the brake lines were VERY tight so 100mm seemed ok

david.

Yeah, Bill really pushes having the flex balanced, doesn't he. Max mentioned roll/articulation balance too, and I agree that I'd rather a balanced vehicle than the ramp Queens you often see in the UK mags (often with ScrapIron suspension systems)
I couldn't understand why Land Rover had such a huge anti-roll bar on the front end of Crew Cabs as it restricts articulation so much until I removed mine. It forced the back end to work ! 130's have a combined rear spring rate per side of 470lb/in, so putting a whopping big arb on the front forces the rear to flex too (sort of) I have much more front articulation now, but the chassis gets thrown around a lot more now off road as the rear isn't doing as much. Unfortunately, being a work vehicle I have to come up with something cunning as I need the load carrying during the week. Soft springs and airbags with an interconnecting solenoid have been on the agenda for a while now. It even may happen eventually

**Tusker** · 18th May 2007, 08:06 AM

snip

Originally Posted by rick130

I couldn't understand why Land Rover had such a huge anti-roll bar on the front end of Crew Cabs as it restricts articulation so much until I removed mine.

end snip

Isn't it as simple as the 130 is a workhorse - there aren't too many 130 rockhoppers around!

With my Xtreme, I actually bolt on a 130 front anti-roll bar, for the long distance expedition type holidays. It helps counteract that roll-oversteer you can get when loaded up with fuel & water, full roofrack etc. More stable in cross winds too.

Regards
Max P

**modman** · 18th May 2007, 08:56 AM

true i do feel the chassis rollingn around more, i guess this is because of the freed(sp) up articulation between the axles.
without a steel tray on the rear now the springs are really too heavy. even loaded up with full fuel (75L) water(60) and camping gear for 4 the rear sags only 20mm. i might have to find some patrol rears at the wreckers (brother gets them for$50 for his gq swb) and try some. i am liking the idea of polyairs/airbags as well rick.

i know what tusker means about the roofrack, about 4 years ago my mum brought my nephews trampolines for xmas. i picked them up on my roofrack. they weighed just on 80 kg each. me being hung over put them hard on the left side

lets just say there is a roundabout on the old calder hwy where i needed to turn 270 degrees right to get onto the freeway.
started my turn from the centre lane, finished halfway on the grass taking out the side markers.

in the ambulance we call it a code brown

i like to say it was my OBC cornering moment.
i wonder if an anti-rock style roll bar would work.
david.

jessie_xa · 18th May 2007, 05:48 PM

Humm where to start, by the time i got here ive forgoten what this post was about I wasnt going to read this but a friend (forum reader) suggested that i read it a put my two cents in.

OK now for the BIGGEST spanner you guys have ever seen.

Firstly why are people runner datson & toyos parts in Land Rovers & Rangies?? All of my gear is of the shevel for my beloved Range Rover the only parts the Ive got the are thats not Rover is the rear view mirror and the gas strut on the upper tail gate which are Ford.

Ever seat, peg, bolt (bar 6 explain later) retainng clip blarblar blar and blar are RR.

Running gear:

Kings springs 770FR53A (Front) 385-395 lbs
King Springs 770RR39E (rear) as this is a verable spring 200lbs then 410-420lbs
Both are a 2" lift which fit in the orignal seats.

Shocks, Pro Comps, hum dont have the part numbers but can go get them if someone realy needs them, nor can i remember the lengths of the shocks. below is some measurements that i took not so long ago to order new springs.

I will start on the rear as this is where most of work my rangie likes. Droop (down travel) on the shocky is 700mm, 460mm closed, spring is at full length at 460mm, 290mm closed (yes they seperate from the top seat, have fix how they return) with a total of 570mm between seats, bump stop open 310mm closed still air between 90mm (have put in larger bump stops, not modified the fixing point to fix air gap).

Front is not as good as i would have liked but due to the nature of how the front end works I need to go to a 5 link to get as much as i do on the rear. I still use the factory shock tower might order a lowered set in one day?
down travel, shock 610mm, closed 380mm spring 380mm closed 210mm, bump stop 160mm closed air gap 40mm, again have place in longer bump stops to fix air gap.

Hi all,

Can anyone help me with this one...
I've got Koni shocks and std height springs in my RRC. I want to put some taller springs in (2 or 3") for some bigger tyres. The shocks are still good. Can i keep them with the new ride height, increased travel etc. Someone told me i can go to a 4" lift with them because all Koni's are long travel...
True or False?

Thanks in advance.

ok Pete, to answer your question, if you have standard length shocks in yes you can put in the 2" longer springs but you will not get any more travel as your shock is what stops the droop (down travel) of the tyre and it will change the closed length as well due to spring bind. to get more droop you need longer travel shocks. longer tavel shocks are any thing over the standard length of 530mm?? open and 345mm?? closed.

I was advised not to go over 750mm long shock as i would need to move/modify the factory mounts so i keep to the next size down which, think were 710mm open and 445mm closed.

And yes i still use the factory mounting points for all springs and shocks, and the 6 bolts that i have changed were the ones supplied with the LRA BLT kickers which are a 10 degree wegde on the top shockie mounting point

**rick130** · 18th May 2007, 06:27 PM

Originally Posted by jessie_xa

Humm where to start, by the time i got here ive forgoten what this post was about I wasnt going to read this but a friend (forum reader) suggested th.at i read it a put my two cents in.

OK now for the BIGGEST spanner you guys have ever seen.

really ??

Firstly why are people runner datson & toyos parts in Land Rovers & Rangies?? All of my gear is of the shevel for my beloved Range Rover the only parts the Ive got the are thats not Rover is the rear view mirror and the gas strut on the upper tail gate which are Ford.

Ever seat, peg, bolt (bar 6 explain later) retainng clip blarblar blar and blar are RR.

umm, the only Toyo and Patrol parts anyone has mentioned in this thread are Bilstein and Koni shocks that suit certain models.
So your King springs and Pro Comp shocks are factory Land Rover too, eh ..

Running gear:

Kings springs 770FR53A (Front) 385-395 lbs
King Springs 770RR39E (rear) as this is a verable spring 200lbs then 410-420lbs
Both are a 2" lift which fit in the orignal seats.

why so bloody stiff ?

Shocks, Pro Comps, hum dont have the part numbers but can go get them if someone realy needs them, nor can i remember the lengths of the shocks. below is some measurements that i took not so long ago to order new springs.

I will start on the rear as this is where most of work my rangie likes. Droop (down travel) on the shocky is 700mm, 460mm closed, spring is at full length at 460mm, 290mm closed (yes they seperate from the top seat, have fix how they return) with a total of 570mm between seats, bump stop open 310mm closed still air between 90mm (have put in larger bump stops, not modified the fixing point to fix air gap).

Front is not as good as i would have liked but due to the nature of how the front end works I need to go to a 5 link to get as much as i do on the rear. I still use the factory shock tower might order a lowered set in one day?
down travel, shock 610mm, closed 380mm spring 380mm closed 210mm, bump stop 160mm closed air gap 40mm, again have place in longer bump stops to fix air gap.

hmmmm. So you have a nice long shock on the back with travel the same as stock so you have to put a huge bumpstop in to stop it going metal to metal and front shocks have less travel than a few listed above that some of us have used without the need for bigger bumpstops. Am I missing something here ??

ok Pete, to answer your question, if you have standard length shocks in yes you can put in the 2" longer springs but you will not get any more travel as your shock is what stops the droop (down travel) of the tyre and it will change the closed length as well due to spring bind. to get more droop you need longer travel shocks. longer tavel shocks are any thing over the standard length of 530mm?? open and 345mm?? closed.

thought this was answered in numerous posts above ??

I was advised not to go over 750mm long shock as i would need to move/modify the factory mounts so i keep to the next size down which, think were 710mm open and 445mm closed.

And yes i still use the factory mounting points for all springs and shocks, and the 6 bolts that i have changed were the ones supplied with the LRA BLT kickers which are a 10 degree wegde on the top shockie mounting point

thanks for the input, but what was that all about ?

**modman** · 18th May 2007, 08:54 PM

why don't you fix the rear steer, are you proud of it.
nice flex in the ass end, but i'm more into balanced set-ups.
anyone can make the rear end flex,
at the moment i'm more interested in seeing how people set up the front ends.
david

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