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Thread: Far'n clutch forks in 300Tdi's....

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Rick, I would mig it rather than braze, the excess heat from brazing will destroy the hardness of the socket and it'll wear faster. I just assemble them with never seize or chassis grease, they will last.

    JC

  2. #12
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    That is Bad luck, I did mine last year on a 95 TDI. thrust bearing collapsed and needed a new Throw out fork. I think from memory I got out of it for under $500.
    When I did mine I threw some questions out to another forum and the advice was to take the motor out. I didn't do that but just put it on ramps at the front and dropped the gearbox and Tfer case out together. I would recomend this over taking out the Motor. I made up a wooden rig which supported the gearbox and tfer case. Not as tidy the bracket in the manual that they give you the design for but it only took 15 minutes to make and did the job nicely. Two trolley jacks under it for support and it was a fairly easy job.
    Things to watch out for are the bolts at the top of the tunnel. Easy to round the heads. I got out of that problem (after rounding the heads)by using a air chisel to knock a smaller socket on to the bolt. The dummy shaft I used was a piece of dowell with insualtion tape on the right sections to thicken it up where needed. And of course new nuts and bolts for the drive shafts as they looked a bit second hand and I also renewed some of the sub frame bolts whilst I was there. If I was to do it again I would drill out the rubber splash mat around the gearshifts and pop rivet it back in as this would of made life a hell of alot easier especially trying to diconnect the electical cables for the speedo and diff lock. Good luck with it.
    Gillie

  3. #13
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    Just re-inforce the clutch fork... Nut, washers, large blobs of weld.. They should sort it nicely.

    M

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bush65 View Post
    In typical rover wisdom, they changed to pressed metal for the clutch fork. They wear through on the pivot.

    If you weld a doubler on the back side, the new one has more material to wear through before it fails.
    So if this is right can you not use a clutch fork off a earlier range rover or disco , or are they the same as the Defender stupid pressed steel
    Last edited by rangieman; 28th May 2007 at 03:05 PM.

  5. #15
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    Clutch forks on Defenders are made from recycled milos tins

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    So if this is right can you not use a clutch fork off a earlier range rover or disco , or are they the same as the Defender stupid pressed steel
    I was thinking that too - will a solid fork fit?

    I recall a mate of mine saying he welded a washer to his - and it has lasted a long time.

    And PS - filters arrived today - thanks!!!
    Last edited by isuzurover; 28th May 2007 at 03:29 PM.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    I was thinking that too - will a solid fork fit?

    I recall a mate of mine saying he welded a washer to his - and it has lasted a long time.
    I dont know if a 4 spd rangie one will inter change as i havent had a chance to see the both of them side by side

    I havent seen a Defender one to see the silly build quality ,maybe rick130 could post some pics when he gets his apart

  8. #18
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    Kevin at Jordan Rovertech in Bentley does a Mod for the fork when he replaces Clutches on Fenders..made themselves I believe to be unbreakable...

  9. #19
    lokka Guest
    Well i have a fork outa a 4spd rangie here il go find it and take a few pix and post em ...

    Must be that time of the year for clutches as mine has developed a rattle at the fork or the thrust race sleeve and has viabration back through the pedal ..

    Had same thing 12months ago with a broken piviot in the bellhousing so looks like its out with the motor or cut a hole in the bottom of the housing ....

  10. #20
    Join Date
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    It's all good clean fun.....................

    I've got a '96 300Tdi Defender and a '72 Series 111 SWB original petrol ute. If you lay the clutch forks side by side the pressed tin Defender one looks like a toy alongside the cast version from the '72. I brazed a big washer from the odds 'n sods box on the back of the Mickey Mouse one as you guys suggest. It's been on there for about 6 years now. I slid the gearbox back on a jack without shifting the engine. The worst job was getting the bell housing bolts out after some rock apes at one of Perth's major dealers (who shall remain nameless but the name is of Italian origin) rounded them all off when they pretended to replace the rear main seal but didn't. I had to weld 'jockey bolts' on the back of each bolt and I felt that I deserved a TAFE certificate afterwards.

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