Thread: Rear output drive oil seal LT230

From the manual it 'looks' quite straight forward.............

having said that they do show two special tools ........one as a restrainer whilst you undo the nut, and the second is puller for the drive flange.

As far as the restrainer - if you are careful on the studs just a metal bar would do, and the puller looks fairly standard

Have a look here

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=6917



Martyn

If it's coming out of the nut then it's usually not the seal rather the oil is coming throught the splines on the output shaft. This is easily rectified by removing the drive flange, cleaning the splines up and smearing some ultra gray to seal it. If oil is coming from the rear of the handbrake drum (ie. from the oil drain hole) where the backing plate mounts to the speedo drive output housing, then it'll be the seal.
Can't give you any hints on how to remove the flange nut as I use a rattle gun.

Bushie, I just bookmarked the index that you got that thread from. VERY HANDY!!!!

Larns, That is the sort of handy hint I was after It is too dark to go and have a look at the moment but luckily I didn't get around to putting it back together as my sister and her family came over.
I am 100% positive the oil was coming out of the splines though as the nut was all oily and the face of the output flange was oily. There was oil in the drum and on pads and the drum had thrown the oil onto the chassis, floor etc but the backing plate was not oily on the front side. As opposed to the pic in Bushies link that had an oil covered backing plate.

I've got an unused tube of Ultra Copper in the garage. Would this do the job?

Ultra Copper
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm

Ultra Gray
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm

youre best bet (imho) for sealing the splines is a good dose of black ATV gasket maker.

drain the oil
grease up the seal and the sliding face of the output flange
apply the goop inside the splines as close as you dare to the seal
apply the goop around the front of the output flange (the bit that will be inside the case) so that you have a nice ring that will touch onto the one you put on the shaft
.

when you push it on the 2 "rings" of goop will touch and become one, then as it inserts capilary type action will pull it into the gaps and seal it all up.

let it setup for about half a day then refill the case

The reason I recomend ATV black is its a low strength oil resistant goop that is very forgiving and speperates easily without tearing so when you pull it apart in theory you dont wind up with it stuck in the case.

Thanks Blknight.

I'm a bit tired but find it difficult to follow your process. No doubt it will be easier to know what's what when I have the bits in front of me.

However to clarify things, do I need to pull the output housing off the transfer case and remove the shaft to do what you are talking about?

Ok what you said Blknight made perfect sense when I read it again this morning. Must have been more tired than I thought

As for the cause of the leak though it was definately the splines. As when I went to undo the big nut this morning, I put the brake drum back on and pulled on the handbrake. Then I put the breaker bar on the nut and gave it a big shove. Only to find the nut was finger tight So after cleaning everything up I put the unit back together as I found it but did the nut up tight. I figure it was only leaking because the nut was loose.

I'll find out after a week of driving if that was a smart thing to do or not.

I found it interesting though that the brake drum had only one locating screw and only one hole however the output flange had two threaded holes as per the Defender pics on the thread that was mentioned earlier.

Thanks for the tips.

Originally Posted by Utemad

Ok what you said Blknight made perfect sense when I read it again this morning. Must have been more tired than I thought

As for the cause of the leak though it was definately the splines. As when I went to undo the big nut this morning, I put the brake drum back on and pulled on the handbrake. Then I put the breaker bar on the nut and gave it a big shove. Only to find the nut was finger tight So after cleaning everything up I put the unit back together as I found it but did the nut up tight. I figure it was only leaking because the nut was loose.

I'll find out after a week of driving if that was a smart thing to do or not.

I found it interesting though that the brake drum had only one locating screw and only one hole however the output flange had two threaded holes as per the Defender pics on the thread that was mentioned earlier.

Thanks for the tips.

Handy you spotted when you did, it might have been quite horrid if the nut had fallen off I would guess.