CDL DRAMAS after install

Picture of spring, showing location of switch

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...007/06/507.jpg

Plus of course there is a ball bearing that pops into the selector rod to hold it in either engaged or disengaged position, this is adjustable, and also has a spring.

To adjust it, acording to the manual, (there is a hex screw next to the switch) turn it fully in, then unscrew two full turns.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ladas

Plus of course there is a ball bearing that pops into the selector rod to hold it in either engaged or disengaged position, this is adjustable, and also has a spring.

To adjust it, acording to the manual, (there is a hex screw next to the switch) turn it fully in, then unscrew two full turns.

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I undid the switch then tighened again and undid the top nut on the switch up and down with no result, i suppose the next thing is that hex screw, failing that maybe the sensor is not working.

The actuator spigot is turning it's full travel i checked that manually and with the actuator cable connected, so that part's working.

Baz.

When you turned it manually - could you hear it clunk into position ?

If it's just the sensor, you could check this by disconnecting the wires from the switch and check the resistance on the two terminals on the switch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ladas

When you turned it manually - could you hear it clunk into position ?

If it's just the sensor, you could check this by disconnecting the wires from the switch and check the resistance on the two terminals on the switch.

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No not a loud clunk, just the click of the spigot.

I'm hoping it's the sensor, i'll check the resistance on it to see if it's OK or not.

Have you checked the globe?

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Originally Posted by Ralf_the_RR

Have you checked the globe?

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It's an LED readout on a circuit board so no i haven't, i did however pull the dash board off and look to see if there was a globe or see if i could access it and aside from not taking the circuit board off wasn't really game enough to go that far anyway:eek::(

Baz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Redback

I undid the switch then tighened again and undid the top nut on the switch up and down with no result, i suppose the next thing is that hex screw, failing that maybe the sensor is not working.

The actuator spigot is turning it's full travel i checked that manually and with the actuator cable connected, so that part's working.

Baz.

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If the actuator is turning the selector through full travel, then there is not problem with the detent ball/spring/screw. The selector moves the shaft and the detent acts on the shaft (not the diff lock fork).

You can see the tip of the selector arm, engaged in a slot in the top of the shaft, at the left end of the picture posted above.

The selector arm shifts the shaft and this applies force on the spring shown in the pic. The brownish coloured part is the selector fork that engages/disengages the cdl dogs.

The switch plunger screws down in way of the rh side of the fork.

From your description, if I have not mistaken what you wrote, you have not adjusted the switch correctly.

There are more than one way, but this is what I suggest you do.
1. Unscrew the switch, a good distance. Note screw out the switch body, not just the locknut.

2. Jack one wheel up so that you can turn one of the propeller shafts to allow the cdl dogs to engage (this is the reason why it needs that spring).

3. Engage the diff lock. If necessary rotate the propeller shaft until it engages properly - often you will hear when the spring snaps it in.

4. Screw in the switch and use a ohm meter (or similar) to detect when the contacts just close. Sometimes you can hear the contacts close. The switch should be screwed in less than 1 turn after the point where the contacts 1st close. If screwed in to far, the plunger will prevent the shift fork from engaging the cdl.

5. Tighten the locknut on the switch body.

6. check that the cdl engages and disengages properly and the indicator light works.

7. remove the jack.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bush65

If the actuator is turning the selector through full travel, then there is not problem with the detent ball/spring/screw. The selector moves the shaft and the detent acts on the shaft (not the diff lock fork).

You can see the tip of the selector arm, engaged in a slot in the top of the shaft, at the left end of the picture posted above.

The selector arm shifts the shaft and this applies force on the spring shown in the pic. The brownish coloured part is the selector fork that engages/disengages the cdl dogs.

The switch plunger screws down in way of the rh side of the fork.

From your description, if I have not mistaken what you wrote, you have not adjusted the switch correctly.

There are more than one way, but this is what I suggest you do.
1. Unscrew the switch, a good distance. Note screw out the switch body, not just the locknut.

2. Jack one wheel up so that you can turn one of the propeller shafts to allow the cdl dogs to engage (this is the reason why it needs that spring).

3. Engage the diff lock. If necessary rotate the propeller shaft until it engages properly - often you will hear when the spring snaps it in.

4. Screw in the switch and use a ohm meter (or similar) to detect when the contacts just close. Sometimes you can hear the contacts close. The switch should be screwed in less than 1 turn after the point where the contacts 1st close. If screwed in to far, the plunger will prevent the shift fork from engaging the cdl.

5. Tighten the locknut on the switch body.

6. check that the cdl engages and disengages properly and the indicator light works.

7. remove the jack.

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I'm hoping to get it checked sometime this week, and if it is the sensor i'll do what you have said above this week after work.

Thanks, Baz.

Hi Baz,
My comment about the ABS was just so it would disable the ETC, that way if you have one wheel jacked up and drive slowly forward and not go anywhere (no CDL) ETC wouldnt try and "help" out but CDL locked you would know for sure its locked, and the sensor i refered to was the CDL switch, My switch was buggered, just screwed it out and checked for continuity with a multimeter when i pressed in the nob on the end.

I have an LT230 rebuild manual in PDF format here somewhere, it has details on setting up the switch etc and lots of other useful info that might help you, i can email you a copy if you like?