Diff locks

Out of curiosity, how does the traction control react when the lockers are locked? I imagine that it would not react too badly as both wheeel should be spinning at the same rate. Is this correct? And does it react differently if you have both or just one axle locked?

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Originally Posted by crash

Out of curiosity, how does the traction control react when the lockers are locked? I imagine that it would not react too badly as both wheeel should be spinning at the same rate. Is this correct? And does it react differently if you have both or just one axle locked?

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I would think the traction control wouldn't know if the diffs were locked or not. It just wouldn't have to work so hard, as wheel spin would be greatly diminished.

Traction control wouldnt go off at all. The cross axle diff locks do exactly that...lock the diff so both wheels will turn at the same speed. The TC works by sensing difference in speed between the wheel and hence once locked they couldnt spin at different speeds...

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Detroits do not lock in reverse and neither do some LSD's...

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BU******!
hate to say it but your wrong! there is no way a detroit wouldnt lock in reverse even their lsd's will bite in reverse.
the old banjo lsd in my EH wagon would also chuck skids in reverse and it was a cone type lsd!

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Traction control wouldnt go off at all. The cross axle diff locks do exactly that...lock the diff so both wheels will turn at the same speed.

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correct! but it dose ''help'' the LSD. it works really well in the front of the 90. ive driven out of many diagonal wombat holes with the detroit and the truetrack, with only 2 wheels on the ground:twisted:

cheers phil

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Originally Posted by rick130

Firstly, Detroit Lockers and Tru Tracs used to be made by a company called Tractech, now been swallowed up by Eaton in the US.

Secondly, a Detroit Locker is a pair of dog clutches splined to smaller hubs which are splined to the axles, with a central dog ring connected to the diff case. This locks the two outer dog faces together, not sprags. On differential wheel speed an outer dog ring can be forced against spring pressure to unlock, giving differential action. As soon as both wheels are rotating at equal speeds, the springs force the dogs to re-engage, locking the diff.

A sprag clutch is a different animal altogether, and will unlock on the over-run, and I'm assuming in reverse.
A famous locking race diff from the seventies was the Wiseman (sp?) Locker that was basically a sprag clutch and cone. It locked 100% but unlocked on the over-run, which is important in a race car as it doesn't then cause corner entry understeer. A Detroit Locker remains locked as you describe, causing corner entry understeer (as does a spool) and only unlocks under differential wheel speed.

A Detroit Locker or No Spin locks the same forward or reverse.

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yeah I'll pay that, Ive only ever pulled one detroit apart and thats what I found inside....

Im not a big fan of them but they are better than open center.

Was quoted $850 for the MD locker (although this is without the locker axle(s) and flanges as I already have 'em) and a days labour to fit it.

I was going to get another detroit but at $850 for the MD I cant go past it.:cool:

I was quoted something like $895 for a Detroit from Locked Drive Systems (obviously no axles or fitting included)....it was a few months ago now.

When I was looking at diff locks my local 4wd bits guy told me that detroit lockers can cause a problem with straight every day driving when tyre pressures aren't even or load isn't even. By the way, the above are all he sells so it wasn't a sales pitch! This is why I went for manual lockers. I chose maxi's because they do not require air pressure to work so there are no electrical problems with switches and no risk of it disengaging when you least want it to because a fuse has blown or an air line has been damaged by a stick. The maxi will stay engaged or disengaged til the cows come home no matter what else fails. If you rip an air line out you can crawl under the thing and suck on the line to engage or disengage the locker. This and the tougher axles that come with them makes them the best in my books. If I put anything in the front it will probably be a tru track LSD because I can't justify the expense of front maxi and don't like the idea of breaking C.V's.

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Originally Posted by Stephen Price

If I put anything in the front it will probably be a tru track LSD because I can't justify the expense of front maxi and don't like the idea of breaking C.V's.

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Now I need advice.

I have read and searched this forum for advice on axles, diffs, cv's and Vic Bitter and I reckon I'm a little clearer on the VB,

If there is one prominent and frequent thread it is regarding diffs/axles!

It would be great if there was a clean-cut and precise answer - but there isn't and I understand that.

There are members who extoll the virtues of Detroits, ARB, Maxi-Drives etc etc. - and I think each has merit.

But hell, guys, it is confusing to a bloke who just wants a diff and axles to work - no fuss, no breakage, no problems. Dare I say, something where I just drive past the Toyota guy and say "stiff bikkies"

OK - a Rover rear diff - is it fair to say a Maxi Drive with axles will "fix" the problem here? Is there a better solution - bearing in mind I want a drive-in-drive out solution.

The front? This has me bamboozzlleedd! CV's breaking etc etc. - if I fit a locker on the front (Maxi-drive) with axles etc is that it? Or is there other "issues" I need to address.

Believe me, I have read the threads - but have come no closer to a solution. I'd guess there are a few blokes wanting the same advice so if anyone can simplify this it would be appreciated.

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Originally Posted by crash

Out of curiosity, how does the traction control react when the lockers are locked? I imagine that it would not react too badly as both wheeel should be spinning at the same rate. Is this correct? And does it react differently if you have both or just one axle locked?

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It becomes redundant as there is no real speed differential.

But

I have had the ETC light come on while the lockers are are locked which I think just came down to me flogging it and the give and flex that was coming from the axles etc was enough to register a wheel speed differential.

If you have just the rear locked, the ETC still seems to work on the front. Infact there are obsticals that are easier to drive like this over being full locked, particularly if you are still wheelspinning.

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Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot

No, 3k from ARB is just the locker and nothing else. There might not be a compressor in that either :o

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Just had mine done 4 weeks ago the have a web special on at the moment

$3000 included

2 x Airlockers
Wiring and installation
1x Compressor
1xtyre repair kit ($62 rrp)
1x Tyre inflation Hose

all included
what was not was the Sals rebuild ($950)
The Maxi Dive Axles and Flanges ($1200)

Hey Barra1, CV's are only $65 each on Ebay, I bought 2 just incase....but generally it is only when going hard like a Toyo driver and getting air on the front wheel and when it spins and comes down there is likely hood of snapping a CV.