Thread: Paint jobs

Originally Posted by Rayngie

so, CHEAPLY....., for a driveway *******, what should i look to get?

any help appreciated,

Ray

a $2 hooker

Someone had to say it.


Wazza

Mate, i did a back to bare metal/'not a bolt left in her' resto of a '71 Capri in the garage - and it was a mongrel of a job!!! They say the preparation is critical!!! to the quality of the end product and it's absolutely true.

My list included:

1) Compressor - 50litre (minimum) GMC brand - $100 at Supercheap - inlcuded fittings and a crap suction fed gun - go for a gravity gun $$.
2) 25m airline and water trap.
3) 'Tack' rags - it's a sticky rag to clean little bits of crap off the body before spraying.
4) various grades of paper - depends on surface paint.
5) Good space to prime and paint - double garage with good ventilation - away from the clothesline too! Decide what type of paint you want o use too because there are regulations for unfiltered use of some paints.
6) Consumables include, thinners, primer, colour, clearcoat etc..
7) An extra ball of tether, because you will soon reach the end of the one you have... i think the little bugs that fly around will want to help you too!

I did some volunteer work in a panel shop on weekends to pick up some points and things to look for, which was great. If you get a chance to speak with someone in the trade, go for it because it's something i always wanted to do too but it can be a huge job/nightmare. I've got some gear that you're welcome to use - send me a PM if you need a hand.

a mate of mine once painted an XP 2 door with a brush and it came up OK, not great but Ok, depends on how good of finish you want.

True

Mate of mine painted his with a brush aswell.. he painted an old S3 landy with hammertone which he bought from bunnings.. looked ok from a distance but he should have washed the car before he painted it!

Not naming any names but farout Outlaw..you could have done a better prep job!

Camo

o.k...i'll draw the line, i will not go near the Discovery with a paint brush..

Mudmouse has basically covered the gear you need. But the type of paint is an important issue - main choices are:

Enamel - relatively easy to paint, comes up shiny straight off the gun, only need 2 coats and no clear - biggest ddownside is it is as soft as cheese for the first few weeks, unless you bake it or use hardener. Also the least toxic!

Acrylic - slightly more difficult to paint - dries as quickly as you can get it out of the gun, usually needs a buff and polish to get it shiny, and usually needs a clear coat over the top. Also usually need a fair few coats.

2-pack/polyurethane - all the benefits of acrylic (shiny straight from the gun, only 1-2 coats needed), plus it is HARDER AND MORE DURABLE THAN POWDERCOATING. Only downside is it is very toxic (isocyanate based). If you are going to use this - make sure you wear a VERY GOOD respirator.

You can do it in your drive, but preperation is the key to the final finish.
it will take you about 100-200 hours to do it spot on if you remove all the fittings and windows and handles ect.
You need to have it off the road for about 2 weeks to do it spot on.
if not it will look crap and then you will pay double to have it fixed....

Originally Posted by sclarke

You can do it in your drive, but preperation is the key to the final finish.
it will take you about 100-200 hours to do it spot on if you remove all the fittings and windows and handles ect.
You need to have it off the road for about 2 weeks to do it spot on.
if not it will look crap and then you will pay double to have it fixed....

I disagree - Assuming the car has no dents (no bog needed), and it doesn't need to go back to bare metal - then usually it is only 1 day to remove parts, 1 day rubbing back the old paint, 1/2 a day to mask, 1/2 a day to paint, and 1 day to reassemble. 4 days or 24 hours. I have done a lot much quicker too, and they have come out looking fine.

Besides, we are talking about a 4x4 here aren't we? Something that needs to have the paint stay on until the next tree branch.