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Thread: Paint jobs

  1. #11
    Rayngie Guest
    well it's got no dents,only scratches and fading paint, so it's the quick solution i'm looking for.

    sand down,mask up,paint, that sort of quickness...

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    I disagree - Assuming the car has no dents (no bog needed), and it doesn't need to go back to bare metal - then usually it is only 1 day to remove parts, 1 day rubbing back the old paint, 1/2 a day to mask, 1/2 a day to paint, and 1 day to reassemble. 4 days or 24 hours. I have done a lot much quicker too, and they have come out looking fine.

    Besides, we are talking about a 4x4 here aren't we? Something that needs to have the paint stay on until the next tree branch.
    OK, well i'm talking from Experiance and not a Web Wheeling point of View.
    I have worked in the Panel beating Trade for over 4 years at one time in my life and i have resprayed and Restored over 10 of my own cars in the past 20 years. I can tell you now, 24 hours will get you a very average paint job that starts to flake on the edges and will not look good in the long run.
    You need to spend time to ensure the panels are rubbed 100% and all edges are rubbed properly. Masking up is the most critical part as any over spray will make any paint job look crap. There is nothing worse than over spray on rubbers and trim.
    If only the Roof and bonnet is bad, then consider paying someone to paint them for you and match the existing paint.

  3. #13
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I painted the 2a with enamel several years ago. Spray gun cost me $20 at a clearing sale, compressor cost $15 at another one.

    I had never spray painted anything before, let alone a car. Quite happy with the results, although more effort in preparation would have given better results, and it would also have been better if the temperature had dropped below 40 while I was painting it, and I could have done without the dust storms. By far the biggest expense was replacing rubber bits - seals, grommets, blanking plugs etc. I disassembled the body completely to do the painting.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #14
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    Have only done a little bit of spraypainting over the years but the advice i can give is take your time, dont expect to do it in 2 coats, pros can, amateurs cant. Start with a couple of dry dust coats with rubbing in between to build up something for those final wet coats to bind to or it will run. Not a bad idea to get some scrap to practice on first.
    John

    Series 2 LWB - Gone
    Series 3 LWB - Gone
    Series 1 LWB - Gone
    81 RR 2 door - Gone
    95 Disco v8 - The Next Victim

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclarke View Post
    OK, well i'm talking from Experiance and not a Web Wheeling point of View.
    I have worked in the Panel beating Trade for over 4 years at one time in my life and i have resprayed and Restored over 10 of my own cars in the past 20 years. I can tell you now, 24 hours will get you a very average paint job that starts to flake on the edges and will not look good in the long run.
    You need to spend time to ensure the panels are rubbed 100% and all edges are rubbed properly. Masking up is the most critical part as any over spray will make any paint job look crap. There is nothing worse than over spray on rubbers and trim.
    If only the Roof and bonnet is bad, then consider paying someone to paint them for you and match the existing paint.
    I am suprised a "real" panel beater would come out and say this. I have completely resprayed 5 cars myself, and have worked with/for a number of panel beaters and spray painters when I was younger. No "Web Wheeling point of view" here.

    Your numbers just don't add up. The average panel shop these days charges at least $50/hr for labour. In your previous post you were talking about 200 hours!!! That is $10k in labour for a basic respray!!! Now if we were talking a show car here then that might sound reasonable - but we aren't...

    I do agree that preparing the existing surface before painting is the key to a good job, but it isn't rocket science and it doesn't take 200 hours on a car with no dents or rust that doesn't need to go to bare metal.

    Here are a couple of threads wiith some good info on paint systems and prep work if you dig through the other stuff.
    http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php't=37798
    http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php't=98728
    http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php't=65638
    Last edited by isuzurover; 13th June 2007 at 11:15 AM.

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