Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: intermitant temperature variations...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Singapore via Melbourne
    Posts
    1,938
    Total Downloaded
    0

    intermitant temperature variations...

    non landy question, but possibly applicable to all vehicles...

    I've got a little buzzbox over here in Singapore that drives well and doesn't miss a beat, and yet recently the temperature spikes upwards almost to the overheating area for a few seconds, then drops back down again to normal (half scale on the gauge) and cycles through this for a couple of minutes. When I stop, the engine is definitely hotter than normal, so I don't think it's sensor related.... possibly the water pump giving up the ghost slowly?

    coolant is full and clean, oil is clean... but there are some 'unusual sounds' that aren't identifiable and so far not reproducable once stopped with the bonnet up....

    any thoughts? my mind says water pump, but with the cap off and thermostat out the water is certainly circulating consistantly (but that intermitant noise aint there either when I look).

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,505
    Total Downloaded
    0
    thermostat disloged/failed, water pump failing, excess debry in the cooling system. failed radiator pressure cap, collapsing lower radiator hose


    he first is easy take the thing out see what happens

    the second take the belt and pully of and see what play you have and how smooth the roataion is, nothing like 30 od HP to make a waterpump look like its turning smoothly

    Drop the bottom radiator hose off and see what comes out if you get flakes thats bad... this can be intermittant as the coolant flow slows the debry begins to settle and then once it does coolant flow returns so the engine cools down as the coolant flow increases as the coolant flow increases it picks up debry which........

    the collapsing lower radiator hose does the same thing...

    and finally check and replace the radiator cap... assuming its not a fancy cooling system with oil-coolant and charge air-coolant heat exchangers thats the simple cheap stuff covered...
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Singapore via Melbourne
    Posts
    1,938
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    thermostat disloged/failed, water pump failing, excess debry in the cooling system. failed radiator pressure cap, collapsing lower radiator hose


    he first is easy take the thing out see what happens

    the second take the belt and pully of and see what play you have and how smooth the roataion is, nothing like 30 od HP to make a waterpump look like its turning smoothly

    Drop the bottom radiator hose off and see what comes out if you get flakes thats bad... this can be intermittant as the coolant flow slows the debry begins to settle and then once it does coolant flow returns so the engine cools down as the coolant flow increases as the coolant flow increases it picks up debry which........

    the collapsing lower radiator hose does the same thing...

    and finally check and replace the radiator cap... assuming its not a fancy cooling system with oil-coolant and charge air-coolant heat exchangers thats the simple cheap stuff covered...
    thanks Dave...

    thermostat is already out, has been since before i got it...

    will check the rest shortly, hoses have swollen around the clamps, so could have swollen inwards as well time for a a few hours under the hood...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Lower South East, South Australia
    Posts
    210
    Total Downloaded
    666.1 KB
    Running with no thermostat can cause issues too.
    (from what I was told once)
    The coolant flow isn't being regulated, it can flow too fast and not actually draw any heat out of the metal, and this can cause hot spots around the cylinder walls.
    Actually boiling the coolant in localized spots.
    This could be the temp fluctuations you see.
    I think from memory, you need the coolant flow slow enough to transfer the maximum heat energy into it, but not too slow as to cause boiling,
    (or too fast as for above reason)

    plausible?
    1999 110 Defender 'Extreme' TD5

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!