Thread: Routine clutch job

if youve done it on a car you can do it in a rover, everythings just a little bit bigger and you have a front prop shaft to catch your arms on...

the usual check everything you can get your eyes ino while your there applies, search the forum for threads based around your gearbox and your engine and that will point you in the right direction....

The clutch slave is a doddle to get in and out anyways so if you dont do it its not a biggie to do later..

what makes you think that you only have 1000km left in the cutch?

drive in drive out all parts supplied and paying attention to due maintenance I'll open at $1.5k for an engine out clutch change...(thats not mates rates either)

get a complete clutch kit. JustinC has done heap of these in the recent past and is currently recommending the AP kit over the Valeo (too many Valeo kits have been shuddering) This includes the cover, plate and thrust bearing.
Replace the spigot bearing (soak this in warm engine oil before hand, don't use grease) I'd recommend getting the flywheel refaced, even if it looks ok, just as a precaution. The flywheel bolts will be a bitch to get off (they use something like Loctite 272, which I use to put everything back together.)

Also replace the fork (check the current clutch fork thread), slipper pads, staples, and clutch rod retainer clip. Use a good quality moly fortified grease on the pivots and splines (sparingly)

Depending on total km, rear main seal may be a good idea. If you do it, do not use any oil on the shaft, don't use a gasket, use only good quality RTV silicone and be careful with the installation tool.
Gearbox input shaft seal is easy, no tricks except that the seal housing also supports the layshaft front bearing cone, so don't drop it.

Get a manual so you have all the bolt/nut tension specs and procedures.

BTW, did this three weeks ago and took out the gearbox/t/case to do it as I needed to replace the t/case input shaft seal and intermediate shaft O rings.
I cheated and used a mates pit, made it much easier.

Whoa! $1500.. and I thought manuals were cheap to repair. Getting my hands bruised and doing this myself just got considerably more appealing.

Thank you for your advice. It's appreciated.

I have checked on the clutch fork thread. Pressed metal? - that must be less than 2mm thick, not what you'd expect to be used in non-sporting machinery generating anything over 100Nm...

Cheers.

$15-1600 is the going rate for Patrol or Land Cruiser clutches around here.