Heater core 1997 Disco.. DIY or Workshop ?

**awabbit6** · 9th July 2007, 08:58 PM

Justin is spot-on with his instructions, but he does make sound easier than what it is.
I have done mine. You have to be very careful not to damage the mating faces where the o-rings fit on the side pipes. The core isn't designed to be removed with these pipes in place. The alternative is to remove the entire heater unit to get to one screw which is against the firewall. This adds to the expense as the air-con has to be re-gassed then

.

I made a simple pressure tester when I did mine so that I didn't have to find the leaks when coolant landed on the floor again. It is simply a pressure guage fitted to a t-piece and a car valve fitting. Pump it up with a bike pump to 13psi and leave it for and hour or so. Check for and drop in pressure. When I fitted the new heater core, I had a leak at one of the joins and was pleased that I went to the trouble of testing before re-filling.

Good luck.

BTW - I was able to get a good core from a wrecker for $50 in a complete heater assembly. Might be worth a try.

**justinc** · 9th July 2007, 09:31 PM

Originally Posted by awabbit6

Justin is spot-on with his instructions, but he does make sound easier than what it is.

I was just trying to be reassuring and encouraging so as not to induce too many tears!

JC

**p38arover** · 9th July 2007, 09:41 PM

What about Bar's Leaks?

My P38A heater core was leaking quite badly - as a temporary fix I've added Bar's Leaks. That stopped the leak.

Ron

**953** · 14th July 2007, 04:03 PM

Originally Posted by p38arover

What about Bar's Leaks?

My P38A heater core was leaking quite badly - as a temporary fix I've added Bar's Leaks. That stopped the leak.

Ron

Have u fixed it since?
Cheers Dean.

**dullbird** · 14th July 2007, 05:39 PM

You don't have to remove the dash, only in earlier D1's pre update headlamp models, which are the same as RRC's.

how is this so my dash had to be ripped out to do my'n and i got a 96 model was only done a couple of months ago.....???

we were told there is another way of doing it by cutting some support strut things near where the air con controls are and them re welding something back in or modifying it or something like that, but we were also told if your going to keep the car you might as well do it properly and not bodge it......

**discowhite** · 14th July 2007, 05:46 PM

hey you! update your location! your not in east hills!!!

cheers phil

**dullbird** · 14th July 2007, 05:49 PM

is that better

**justinc** · 14th July 2007, 05:52 PM

Originally Posted by dullbird

how is this so my dash had to be ripped out to do my'n and i got a 96 model was only done a couple of months ago.....???

we were told there is another way of doing it by cutting some support strut things near where the air con controls are and them re welding something back in or modifying it or something like that, but we were also told if your going to keep the car you might as well do it properly and not bodge it......

...I see. Me thinks they are masochists as there is no need to remove the whole dash, and any one in their right mind wouldn't put themselves through it

Especially me. I might also add that 4 hours labour is a bit less than the time it takes to remove all the dash etc.
And just to clarify, NO CUTTING is required. everything on a D1 unbolts. The only cutting I have heard of is with a P38 heater. They ARE a dash removal job if you don't cut the Driver side support bracket .(20 hours labour as versus about 6 if you cut and weld the bracket

)

Sorry Dullbird, but there was no need to remove the dash, and no cutting and welding is required at all on a D1, as DarrenW is about to find out....

JC

**dullbird** · 14th July 2007, 05:56 PM

Originally Posted by justinc

...I see. Me thinks they are masochists as there is no need to remove the whole dash, and any one in their right mind wouldn't put themselves through it

Especially me. I might also add that 4 hours labour is a bit less than the time it takes to remove all the dash etc.
And just to clarify, NO CUTTING is required. everything on a D1 unbolts. The only cutting I have heard of is with a P38 heater. They ARE a dash removal job if you don't cut the Driver side support bracket .(20 hours labour as versus about 6 if you cut and weld the bracket

)

Sorry Dullbird, but there was no need to remove the dash, and no cutting and welding is required at all on a D1, as DarrenW is about to find out....

JC

no justin the cutting i was talking about was a mod that we were told that could be done so you dont have to take the dash out completly....

**justinc** · 14th July 2007, 06:02 PM

Originally Posted by dullbird

no justin the cutting i was talking about was a mod that we were told that could be done so you dont have to take the dash out completly....

Interesting, I have no idea what they are talking about, as I have never removed any part of the dash to do these. Only early D1's. I must admit it is very difficult to fit the o rings and tubes back in, but only hard, not impossible, and this is how I do all of them.
And yes, I believe LR say pull out the heater box assembly, but they also say to remove the ENGINE to replace the timing belt and fuel pump belt on an early freeloader diesel too!!

JC

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