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Thread: Heater core 1997 Disco.. DIY or Workshop ?

  1. #1
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    Heater core 1997 Disco.. DIY or Workshop ?

    All,

    just returned from a 5 week tour Melb to Broome and back via Alice towing a 20ft caravan.(1997 300Tdi Man) First trip away with my new son of 9 months.
    Coming back last week the heater went in the Disco, wet carpet on both the front seat foot wells. Simple 30 min fix by the side of the road to bypass the heater but did make for a cold few days from Alice to Melb....especially when you have to put the air con on to clear the screen.

    Enough of the dribble....

    Question is has anybody on the forum attempted to replace the heater core themselves ? If so is it difficult , would you do it again ??

    I've read the manual and from what I can make out it appears to be the first thing in the car....... take body shell, install heater , assemble rest of car

    Darren

  2. #2
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    Hi Darren,

    Sorry, don't know about heater core replacement. But, before you attack it, are you sure it's the heater core and not just an overflowing air conditioner? We've had the 'wet carpet syndrome' many times, not just in humid summer conditions but also in wet, cold conditions, where we keep the air con running as well as heating, to keep the 'screen & windows clear.

    For some reason, the D1 condensate drain nipples, either side of the gearbox main body, repeatedly glue themselves closed, in all weathers. All that's normally needed is to crawl underneath with a torch and flick them with your finger tip - at which point they'll usually gush half a cupful of dirty water down your arm. If they're badly blocked, you might need to ream them with a wooden satay skewer or similar.

    Hope it's as simpe as this.
    Ian &
    Leo - SIII 109/GMH3.3
    Daphne I - '97 Disco 300Tdi Manual
    Daphne II - '03 Disco Td5 Auto

  3. #3
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    welcome to Landrover Heater Cores 101

    The very first thing Landrover do in the production of a Disco is suspend said heater matrix by several skyhooks to perfect alignment,,

    then they build the rest of the bloody car around it!

    you have to rip the entire dash out,

    its slow but the photo of your cars interior demolished makes it all worthwhile,,

    the whole thing takes takes about a day if you DIY,,
    nothing too difficult
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  4. #4
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    Leo109,

    thanks for the response, unfortunately its definately from the heater as its green anti freeze I saw on the mats...... and it doesn't taste like water

    Pedro,

    so have you done it yourself and do you have any pics ?? Also did you happen to get a quote from a workshop for the job ??

    Darren

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Hi DarrenW
    The heater core in a 94 onwards D1 is actually very easy, I do them in about 4 to 5 hours tops. You don't have to remove the dash, only in earlier D1's pre update headlamp models, which are the same as RRC's.
    The heater core slides out to the rH side of the heater box, you first remove the console, undo the bolts(small) and remove the under steering column inspection flap, the stiffener bracket it is bolted to, along with the support brackets for the dash on the RH side and next to the clutch pedal area. Remove the slide control cable clip and move the cable for the RH heat select out of the way, undo the small clamps from the pipes and pull them out of the core and the retaining plate/clamp from the heater core itself and slide it out. It will be tight, but leverage will get it with a sizeable flat screwdriver blade.
    That was the easy bit.
    When the new heater is on the bench you will be able to see how the O rings fit into the core, and that is the worst part of the installation. (BTW,The new core will not have foam strips around it, and I would slide it in to the box first, then fit adhesive weather stripping around outside afterwards to seal it up)Fit core back in to heater box, then using rubber grease only on the Orings and sockets in the core, push the pipes into the core CAREFULLY but firmly. They must be flush with the outside edge to enable the clampsto be fitted tightly and seal it properly.
    All this is to be done with minimal lighting and pain from a stupid contortinists position
    After that is doneYou have almost finished, fit all the bits back in in reverse order and fill with coolant.

    I hate doing them but I get quicker each time.

    Hope this helps

    JC

  6. #6
    up2nogood Guest
    I have to do the one in my early Disco and was thinking of cutting out the firewall to access more easily (engine's out anyway).

    Is this an option, or is the core too far inside the dash for access this way?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by up2nogood View Post
    I have to do the one in my early Disco and was thinking of cutting out the firewall to access more easily (engine's out anyway).

    Is this an option, or is the core too far inside the dash for access this way?
    No, and yes.You'll have to go in the hard way and remove the heater box, as to get the core out of these you have to dismantle the box itself, on a bench....

    I'm not available to do this job at any price.


    JC

  8. #8
    up2nogood Guest
    Man, that sucks.....

  9. #9
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    Justin,

    thanks for the response, looks like a job pver a couple of weekends. I'll give it a go on Saturday and hopefully get the mongrel out for a start.
    Just curious, have you ever done one where it is not the heater core its the connection to it ??

    I might take some pics for other poor suckers.....

    Used to working as a contortinist I also work on mini's

    Thanks

    Darren

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarrenW View Post
    Justin,

    thanks for the response, looks like a job pver a couple of weekends. I'll give it a go on Saturday and hopefully get the mongrel out for a start.
    Just curious, have you ever done one where it is not the heater core its the connection to it ??

    I might take some pics for other poor suckers.....

    Used to working as a contortinist I also work on mini's

    Thanks

    Darren
    MINIS??? You are a braver man than me gungadin!

    Yes is the short answer. I have found a few leaking O rings in my time, bu they usually leak from age, and the heater core originally is aluminium, and acts like an anode eventually ...So I would be turfing the core also because by replacing the O rings you have done the worst part of the job anyway IMO. The core is about $300 or even less I think. Depends where you get it from.

    JC

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