Thread: Series Springs

Garry,

I have gone through the process of replacing my originals in my SWB 2A sometime ago, then fitting Rocky Mountain Parabolics (after some research) - I wouldn't go back. I havent had them for that long but am very impressed with there comfort and handling off road.

If you want some help, speak to 'Mika' at FWD motors. Very helful and prompt with service (Mika@fwd-motors.com.au). I had my parts in darwin within a week from QLD.

You may find more info at parabolicsprings.com.au

I put paras on a series 2 and later transfered them to a series 3 with a 4.4 alloy P76 motor, which is lighter than the 6 or the 4 cylinder motors that are standard. Ride on both vehicles was greatly improved and close to coils. Articulation (crossaxle) performance was a lot better. Ride hieght was lifted 50mm.
Big problem with normal after market springs is that the springmakers believe that spring rates need to be increased (made stiffer) to improve 4x4 performance. This is totally incorrect. You need softer springing with a greater spring curve with longer and better damping (shockers) for control. This lessens damaging vibrations and bouncing, making the vehicle more pleasurable and safer to drive. This is why parabolic springs are so successful, greater ride hieght and a softer spring rate allowing the axle to move easier and over a greater distance.
And forget about antiroll bars. Body roll is a byproduct of better crossaxle performance, and antiroll bars limit this, which decreases 4 wheel drivability. That is unless you drive a plastic fantastic elecromagic model, complete with ABS, Traction control, and all other sorts of helpful devices that take control away from the driver.
Anyway, enough of my ravings, I hope this will help with your selection.
Great to see another Series 1 being used as was meant to be, and not a museum piece.
Best Regards
Terry

96 Defender
76 Series 3 V8
72 Series 2A

Thanks guys - I am happy about parabolics but don't much about normal springs that are available on the market.

Parabolics are about $1100 plus shipping and normal springs range from about $750 to $900 plus shipping so parabolics are cost effective. But are standard springs/iron man springs/industrial springs etc at standard duty specs any good (if I were to choose to stay with normal springs).

While the car will be used offroad and used to tow the occasional box trailer, it will not be used to carry or tow anything heavy - afterall I have my Freelander that has a higher tow rating/load capacity anyway - sorry had to put that in.

Cheers

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

Thanks guys - I am happy about parabolics but don't much about normal springs that are available on the market.

Parabolics are about $1100 plus shipping and normal springs range from about $750 to $900 plus shipping so parabolics are cost effective. But are standard springs/iron man springs/industrial springs etc at standard duty specs any good (if I were to choose to stay with normal springs).

While the car will be used offroad and used to tow the occasional box trailer, it will not be used to carry or tow anything heavy - afterall I have my Freelander that has a higher tow rating/load capacity anyway - sorry had to put that in.

Cheers

Garry

Depends what is most important. If you want a comfortable ride, go with the parabolics without fail. I would be inclined to fit the 2-leaf rears, IMO the 3-leaf are too stiff for a SWB.

I have modified standard springs. For me, wheel travel/offroad ability were number 1. When I built my springs, paras were not available in OZ. I called all the spring places who made replacement springs, and all of them wanted to sell me "Heavy Duty" springs. I ended up modifing some (old) genuine springs and having them reset. The spring place who did the resettiong told me the quality of the old spring steel is much better than the new stuff you get these days.

This is still a fair way from full wheel travel. If I had paras fitted I would probably have a wheel or 2 off the ground.

hey ben, I've got a series 3 shorty with some decent original (I think) springs on it, any suggestions for mods to them to get some flex outta them? it'll be a daily driver and used on the beach a fair bit too.

Originally Posted by aussie_stu

hey ben, I've got a series 3 shorty with some decent original (I think) springs on it, any suggestions for mods to them to get some flex outta them? it'll be a daily driver and used on the beach a fair bit too.

Measure the leaf thicknesses (accurately) to see if they really are original/genuine.

From memory...
Front should have a main about 4.4mm thick, and the rest should be 4.2mm. 9 leaves in each pack.

Rear should be 11 leaves x4.4mm

ALL aftermarket springs are made from 5mm spring steel, as thinner material is almost impossible to obtain. This dramatically increases the spring rate - e.g. a standard 88" petrol front spring is about 220lb/in, an aftermarket copy made from 5mm thick leaves is about 320lb/in!!!

If you really do have original fronts (as above) I wouldn't go softer (unless you have a light engine like a rover V8). But the standard shocks are too short, so you can either fit longer shocks, or shave 15-20mm from the bump stop to get more travel.

On the rear you can take out 1-2 of the lower leaves and get them reset (if you don't plan on carrying any really heavy loads). Also check that shock length isn't limiting your wheel travel.

SWB (series) landies flex much better "out of the box" than LWB, as they have softer springs and the rears are further inboard.

thanks mate, what do you classifuy as heavy load? probably carrying 250 kg max

Originally Posted by aussie_stu

thanks mate, what do you classifuy as heavy load? probably carrying 250 kg max

Is that including people? What sort of roof - and any heavy accessories on the rear?