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Thread: g/box & engine - tips how to seperate

  1. #1
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    g/box & engine - tips how to seperate

    hi all
    I eventually got into the garage today & removed eveything to get my gearbox out of the RR.
    I have the hoist in and supporting the weight; it's all loose, (yes I have checked all the bolts are out) but I can't seem to seperate the two. I am a bit reluctant to belt it with something as it's cast ally.

    I got the replacemernt out of the other RR with little difficulty.

    So.......... any tips or suggestions to part them

  2. #2
    mcrover Guest
    Most likely just stuck on the dowls. Double check that all the bolts are out and anything that could be holding it together like brakets etc are taken off and then give it a light tap with a soft hammer or a block of wood and it should start to separate.

    Sometimes you may need to lever it near the dowels but be gental.

    2 mates of mine have 3.5's in boats with soft clutches and they get that everytime they service the clutch.

  3. #3
    lokka Guest
    Make sure the angle is right as this will cause bind at the dowels and its probablt easier to get the engin out first then the box thats if the engin has to come out ive gota get mine out soon and replace the bellhousing and il be pulling the engin out rather than the box

  4. #4
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    so whats the right angle?

    It's supported by a hoist, the rope is obviously from above and maybe slightly to the left of centre.

    Maybe I should move the hoist so it's pulling the box away rather than up?

    BTW the engine is staying in

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by HangOver View Post
    so whats the right angle?

    It's supported by a hoist, the rope is obviously from above and maybe slightly to the left of centre.

    Maybe I should move the hoist so it's pulling the box away rather than up?

    BTW the engine is staying in
    So you have the gearbox slung under a hoist and the engine is staying in.

    Is the t/case still attached to the gearbox? If so it adds a fair bit of weight on the right side - so the sling should be offset to the right, not the left. It also affects the fore and aft position of the sling.

    You don't say whether you have supported the rear of the engine. I usually tilt the gearbox and engine down at the rear first, and use a jack to support the rear of the engine. The jack allows adjustment of the angle as work progresses.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcrover View Post

    Sometimes you may need to lever it near the dowels but be gental.

    .

    So you have to be jewish to do it

  7. #7
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    the box it now out <-- ooohh look new smiley

    I moved the hoist hook slightly behind the gearstick and used a longer arm so it was directly above top center then lowered the gearbox almost back to the original position and pulled the box backwards rather then side to side.

    now I just need to do all the jobs on it and put the bloody thing back in. I now understand why garages charge an arm and a leg for this job !

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by HangOver View Post
    the box it now out <-- ooohh look new smiley

    I moved the hoist hook slightly behind the gearstick and used a longer arm so it was directly above top center then lowered the gearbox almost back to the original position and pulled the box backwards rather then side to side.

    now I just need to do all the jobs on it and put the bloody thing back in. I now understand why garages charge an arm and a leg for this job !
    Putting it back in is worse.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for that !


    Any tips for getting the clutch plate dead-centre when bolting on the pressure plate?

  10. #10
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    I always use to use a slightly fashioned broom handle.

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