Thread: 110 County - recovery points

Originally Posted by Ben

county-recovery-front.jpg Is my best bet to lose the bullbar brackets and fitting a rated point?

good luck finding one....

Caveat: I AM NOT OFFERING YOU SUGGESTIONS OR ADVICE - AND ANYTHING YOU DO IS AT YOUR OWN RISK.

sorry, have to add that when we are talking about highly stressed bits of dangerous metal...

If it was my truck - on the rear, I would get some 15mm thick mild steel flatbar and make a straight tongue with a hole for a shackle. i.e. - like the existing one, only straight, with 2 holes for the (class 8.8?) bolts that hold the existing tongue on, and a third for the shackle pin. Make sure the bolt holes are drilled accurately so the load is evenly spread.

How thick is the bullbar bracket in the pics?
EDIT - on the front, if it was my truck, I would make a plate from 10mm or thicker steel, to bolt to (and laminate) one of the existing brackets, I would make it so it is fixed using at least 2 of the bullbar-chassis bolts and so it extands back to bolt to the bracket shown further bach on the LHS of the top picture.

Caveat: I AM NOT OFFERING YOU SUGGESTIONS OR ADVICE - AND ANYTHING YOU DO IS AT YOUR OWN RISK.

It's a situation which is difficult to be definitive about but if it were my vehicle and I couldn't bolt something large directly and securely to the chassis then I'd get two of these:


and do the following:
1. Satisfy myself the bullbar is strong and solidly attached to the chassis with high tensile bolts.
2. Mount one hook on each of the vertical arms of the bullbar as close in line with the chassis rails as possible.
3. Use high tensile bolts of course and a metal plate on the other side of the bar to act as reinforcement. The bolts used should only be threaded on the final part which protrudes beyond the hook-bar-spacer part. Pack them with washers if required.
4. Use as long a bridle as possible to share the load between the hooks.
5. Snatch as lightly as possible.

But that is just what I'd do....

Thanks for the opinions based on limited information, without endorsement nor warranty, that in no way constitutes accountable advice, nor substitutes obtaining advice from a qualified expert.

I've just reread all the posts regarding recovery points, and finally realised why there's a lack of 110 information

Originally Posted by isuzurover

How thick is the bullbar bracket in the pics?

Forgot to measure that last night, they're 7mm thick. I'm not going to rush something into place for the weekend. Hopefully I can use the tow bar and take it easy.

I've got a standard Fender bumper to replace the bullbar, so I might look at attaching JATE rings or something like Ladas' recovery points directly to the chassis.

Thanks again!

Use the rings mounted on your chasis there in the pisc u posted 2 on the back end and i saw 2 on the front as well ...

Use a tree trunk protector with 2 shackels and put the tree trunk protector through the eye of the snatch strap will work ok for snatching as those points on the chasis are reinforced to take load beta than ya bullbar at least

Originally Posted by lokka

Use the rings mounted on your chasis there in the pisc u posted 2 on the back end and i saw 2 on the front as well

Wot, the transport lashing eyes! We'll see how it goes. I'll take a shovel - kinetic recovery can be the last resort

Originally Posted by lokka

Use the rings mounted on your chasis there in the pisc u posted 2 on the back end and i saw 2 on the front as well ...

Use a tree trunk protector with 2 shackels and put the tree trunk protector through the eye of the snatch strap will work ok for snatching as those points on the chasis are reinforced to take load beta than ya bullbar at least

The tie down rings on the rear of the chassis will tear straight out...........the ones on the front mount through a much thicker section of chassis and may be OK with a bridle............