Thread: how much weight up top??

There seems to be 2 schools of thought from my experience.

1. Maximum load allowed to ensure warranty (if still covered) and safety against roll over.

2. Avoiding damage to roof structure.

Personally I have used 1800mm long steel roof racks (I must sell mine one day) that probably weighs close to the limit by itself. I have used these to carry goods and gear and have not damaged the roof structure as the weight was evenly distributed over the length of the rack.

I was always driving with the knowledge that the vehicle was top heavier than without the rack. I had no problems nor came close to roll over.

I have owned 3 Land Rovers with similar racks.

I would be more concerned in your case if the 3 Rhino racks place load on 6 points of the roof but it might be OK. I would hate to see the separate racks twist forward under heavy braking and reef sections of your gutter off landing gear on your bonnet. A mate of mine had an alloy roof rack that broke on the cape dumping his gear all over the bonnet. He had a pooojeero so it did not matter to me.

Warning Warning Warning

The telegraph track road to Cape York is notorious for constant corrugations that will viberate the **** out of anything in and on your vehicle.

Have a serious look at what you are packing and remove as much crap as you can 50% of what you got now as being taken wil never be used or required and probably packing it is a waste of time and you will be wondering why you ever thought it was necessary.

If your travelling with another vehicle split what your taking between you and that alone reduces 50% of the crap your taking the more vehicles the bigger the crap saving you achieve.

Whatever you pack on top make sure its light, make sure its not inflamable or explosive, eg fuel cans and gas bottles.

If your going to roof rack it check it every day for wear on your gutter, cracked welds and tightness of fitment, a loose roof rack will act as a can opener on your gutter.

Have a serious read of otehr people travel threads on any forum and see what they took and see what they actually used again you will note we over pack, over prepare, as our minds are saying whoooo bigger adventure, danger fun when in fact trip will be uneventful.

Also consider your ability if you cant dismantle and repair an engine why take the tools, basic requirement will be for trye pliars, tube and tread repair kits as most likely failure going to be tyre punctures on road.

For cape york plenty of creek crossings so get a fitted tarp to cover front of vehicle and make sure can wd40 or similar if petrol motor.

Has anybody experienced there rhino system failing, I too prefer full gutter mount to spread the load but there seem to be a heap of people using rhinos

I have a pretty heavy full length steel roof rack...when I crossed the simpson I had the following (approx weight)- solar panel (5), 2 x fuel jerry (45), 1 x water jerry (20), 3 x swags (20), 2 x 3kg gas cylinders (6), rim and tyre (40?)and an awning (5), rack (who knows 60 maybe)

Gee never added it up before, umm I might have went easy on the weights

I prefer gas cylinders and fuel to be on the outside/top

I probably overpacked for the simpson but being my first remote extended outback trip at the end of the day I was comfortable with my load.

Just trying to think what I didn't use or brought along the way

- 1 x gas cylinder, but you kinda need two for if one ran out in the middle of no-where.. not that we emptied one
- extra spare but everybody carries two
- tent, but what happened if it rained
- 2 x fuel jerries, no matter have big everybodies long range tanks are they all still seem to carry a jerry
- 1 x water jerry, had another 72L in the rear floor well..but I drank brizzy water for the whole trip
- 5 x 30 packs of beer,could have brought along the way I guess but to expensive
- 1 x table, never set the two up
- I had two fridges 1 x 40L and 1 x 32L as a frezzer, probably could hasd did with one but once again I took enough meat for the whole trip
- I only re-supped bread, fruit, veg and fuel along the way...19 days
- gee I was travelling light on the home stretch but, the defender felt like a rocket

I probably have not help you out just a bit more food for thought

- I am glad a carried a clutch master cylinder kit as I had to rebuild it a mt dare

I would be happy with your load on top

I was reading recently on an African site that full length racks with the long rail stop the natural flex of the roof on a Land Rover and contribute to gutter damage and leaking. The article recommended using a rack with plenty of wide / broad legs instead.

Personally I've loaded over 200kg on a SIII, but as my Defender doesn't leak, I'm not about to do that on the Defender.

I'd try for an alloy rack (though steel is easier to repair) with a zip up and velcro sealed water proof travel bag on top with all the light stuff like sleeping gear and clothes. I'd put a spare tyre on the rack, but avoid loading a rim. That's easier if there are several vehicles using the same size tyres & rims on the trip. Store water low, by getting a tank or a bladder. There was a guy on ebay selling 350 litre water bladders that fit in a ute for just over $100 a couple of weeks ago (new product and new listing - look under the water tanks section, not the car section). Even if you par filled a big bladder and manged to keep it low, that would be good.

Pack effectively, like putting spares (bearings, unis, hoses etc ) in the under seat toolbox (if its a Tdi) where they won't get in the way, reducing clutter in the cargo area. Other options are to put a shelf on the back of the cargo barrier to create another layer for packing light stuff.

That's 75Kg INCLUDING the weight of the rack itself. Have a serious re-think about what you're taking as it should all be able to fit inside the truck (well most of it).

Surf boards?? I thought the Cape was in croc country
Spare wheel - Could you fit a bonnet mount??
Jerry cans - These could go in the rear.

Go light...

M

...in fact a better idea would be to read this book before you go. Vehicle Dependant Expedition Guide

M

Originally Posted by Michael2

I was reading recently on an African site that full length racks with the long rail stop the natural flex of the roof on a Land Rover and contribute to gutter damage and leaking.

So do they mean that the chassis actually flexes as well? I don't think the roof would flex any more than the chassis does.

What do others think?

some good points there, cheers.

to clarify -

surfboards - I'll be heading all the way to the west coast so taking them is a priority.
Bonnet mount - apaprently I can't mount a tyre on the bonnet of the TD5, otherwise I would.
fuel - we have a full bed in the back with roll out draws full of food and kitchen stuff, plus I hate driving with fuel in the car.

The space case on the roof has basic but sufficient recovery gear, a tent and tools. I guess I could take the tools out and put them lower in teh vehicle, but other than that I'm travelling pretty light.

I've got a 40ltr water tank in the rear left fender and two 20ltr squashable tanks for when we go further afield, which should keep extra weight low.

anyways, leaving in a few days so not much I can do now..ha ha ha

Jimmy