Thread: SIIA transfer case or gearbox noise?

It does sound like the transfer case - louder in top than the other gears because it is turning faster in these gears, and other noise is less.

These transfer cases always seem to produce some noise, although the first question of course is "Is there any oil in it?" It is most,likely that the noise could be reduced by replacing the bearings and if necessary the shaft on the interemediate gear in the transfer case - this can be done without removing the box, and possibly checking the preload on the output shaft bearings. However, unless the noise is excessive due to lack of oil it is unlikely that continuing to run it will create any problems other than noise. For your peace of mind, and to learn more about it, you may find it worthwhile to drain the oil from the transfer case and remove the bottom (sloping) cover plate to have a look at the works and check for any problems - one I have run across is a broken thrust washer on the intermediate gear, part of which then passed through the gears, to their detriment.

John

Apart from the bellhousing, there's no difference between the 4- and 6-cylinder gearboxes. Other than something like the gearstick and so on.

I think the 186 is the best bet for an otherwise stock-standard Series Landie. Driven sensibly, they're a nice match to the gearbox.

Thanks for the replies JDNSW and Davo. I've done a little trouble shooting this afternoon - the results are not promising!

When I put the t'case in neutral and run through the gears, listening to the gearbox using an improvised stethoscope (steel shank screwdriver to the ear) I get a definite rumble in 4th that is not present in 1st or 2nd. 3rd does rumble a little. It sounds a lot like bearing noise. Am I correct in assuming that with the t'case disengaged there should be no movement of the intermediate gear - hence isolating the noise to the gearbox (probably mainshaft bearings)?

I dont have a workshop manual but I'm sure this should be the case. All the oil levels are good and I topped up with EP90 with a little Nulon (for luck) when I bought it - the nulon made no difference to the noise.

The quotes I got today for gearbox and t'case were more than I'm willing to pay so I'll do it myself. I'm assuming that someone does a rebuild kit for these, can anyone point me in the right direction? If I've got it out I'll do the lot so any advice on what will be required as far as parts and special tools (other than whitworth spanners and some feeler gauges)?

Cheers,

sounds like the center support bearing and the mainshefgt bearings are flogged to me....

but first things first...

1. Take the inspection plate off the bottom of the tcase and eyeball the gears in there, check the wear, float and lash by feel, naff the gauges at this point, you will feel something dodgy in the tcase.

2. while you dont need them I would reccomend that you have on hand a dial indicator and a spring gauge for testing the setup of the box, they are a doddle to rebuild and Definately in the DIY catagory in my books if you have the manual can read and are willing to be patient about it.

I still need to do repair manual transmissions so if worst comes to worst and you want to pay shipping and parts Im happy to rebuild the box for ya.

if the tcase is the problem you can rebuilt it in situ without dropping it off the gearbox but you need to be a bit multi jointed.

Its amazing the varying opinions on the little holden 6 in the early landys, I want to do mine but they say no, waste of time, engine revs too much and not designed to run at peak RPM for long periods, this however doesnt apply to the ford 6 which is a match made inheaven, heaps power, heaps torque, good in the revs and bombproof, I have a holden housing and am getting a landy soonwith holden gear in it to finish the job, just have to decide yay or nay,

G'day landyfromanuthaland. This is the first one I've had with the conversion and I have to say its not too bad. I whinged a bit when I first drove it because it seemed to run out of puff at about 90kph - that turned out to be a carby linkage issue: she now runs out to about 130kph! I take it pretty easy though, only gave her one good squirt to see what was possible...

I think the OD or HRTC would be a must - I have the OD and you really need it above 80kph.

All things considered I'd be happier with the original rover donk - I'll eventually put one back - but the holden seems a good substitute.

Originally Posted by akelly

.......... Am I correct in assuming that with the t'case disengaged there should be no movement of the intermediate gear - hence isolating the noise to the gearbox (probably mainshaft bearings)?

I dont have a workshop manual but I'm sure this should be the case. ........
.......If I've got it out I'll do the lot so any advice on what will be required as far as parts and special tools (other than whitworth spanners and some feeler gauges)?

Cheers,

With the transfer case in neutral, everything in the transfer case is still turning except for the output shaft - the selection is on the output shaft, not the input.

It could be the gearbox bearings, but I would have expected at least as much noise in the indirect gears then.

First thing you need to get is the workshop manual (Land Rover genuine for preference). This details what tools are needed for each operation. The parts manual is useful too, as it has more comprehensive pictures, but the 2a manual is very good.

Unless it is a very early box most of the nuts will be AF not Whitworth, although you are sure to run across some Whitworth ones. The change to Unified threads happened about the introduction of the Series 2, but the Series 1 box is interchangeable, so it is always a bit uncertain what bits you actually have! When ordering parts you need to know the box number as there were a number of significant changes during Series 2a production.

John

Well, I've pulled the cover off the t'case, removed the overdrive and its official - John was correct. The intermediate bearings are stuffed - the entire gear can be "wiggled" and rumbles like a bastard when turned by hand. Just to be sure, I also repeated the stethescope routine on the gearbox, with no real noise at all once the t'case was not being driven. Fantastic news really, as I dont have a lot of spare time to do a gearbox. I'll do the shaft and bearings in place as suggested - any tips on this?

Thanks John and all for your helpful advice thus far. I've taken some progressive pics and I'll put them into the projects forum when I get finished.

Now to get the bloody shaft out! Some bugger had welded the lock tab to the shaft! Thats been removed now and a new shaft will go in - any tricks for getting the shaft out without the proper puller? I got it out enough to measure, its 1 5/8" so at least I can order the new bits...


Cheers,