Thread: Manual or Auto?

go the manual (for those of you who didnt anticipate that Hi, welcom to AULRO) driven nice and serviced properly theres no real problems with an r380. But the same lies tru for the auto.

The real hassle comes from having the rebuild it if it fails.

I havent totally killed either of them yet but Ive had more problems with autos than manuals (counting customer type work here not just personal stuff). george130 has recently had one go puhh on him from water ingress into its guts and a total fluid loss renders them almost usless instantly untill you fix the leak and refill them, not so on the manuals...

either way check the oil of the box before you take it for a drive and after, if the dealer warms up the car before you get to it dont take it for a drive, tell him you'll come back first thing and try the test again or your not interested. A lot of early warning stuff will show up better when either type of box is cold and hasnt had its coffee yet. If hes not willing to let you take it from stone cold say thanks for your time, not interested, bye.

When I was looking for my Disco1 I wanted an auto. Then I wanted a manual. Then I wanted an auto.........

I didn't like the heavy clutch of the manual but I really didn't like the rebuild price of an auto.
So I have a manual and now I am a man because I am used to the heavy clutch and don't notice it anymore
The Disco I bought had a 20k old clutch when I got it so should be good for another 100k or 70k now.

With the V8 you don't have to change gear that often anyway.

I read somewhere that the service life of the ZF auto is 250k.

thats what they expect it to get to if you abuse it, its good for double that (at least) just like an r380 is only good for 380nm of torque but dont mind up to 700nm if looked after from the get go.

Listen to Blknight...... He knows ....

I much prefer a manual but that may be because:
- I am old
- grew up with manuals
- live out in the country
- they get better mileage
- seem simpler than all the gizmos inside an auto box
- apart from sand, better off road

I don't notice that the clutch is hard at all (Disco TDi300) and driving in the city is no dramas.

Slightly 'notchy' into 2nd when cold, but never had a problem with it in 10 years. Still on the original clutch.

Yes a manual you have more engine braking going down steep hills and if its wet id rather the engine slowing me down

So all up this means you have more control over the car with a manual than you have with a auto

Originally Posted by rangieman

Yes a manual you have more engine braking going down steep hills and if its wet id rather the engine slowing me down

So all up this means you have more control over the car with a manual than you have with a auto

I can lock up the convertor and walk quicker on mine

Skiddie

All of my 4WDs have been manuals (BJ70 Cruiser, 2 x Hiluxes, MQ Patrol, Disco1 V8, Forester [yes it has low range], 3 x Pajeros and a Wrangler) and I agree with virtually everything Spudboy says.

But, my D2 (when I get it) is an auto - I approach this with some trepidation as I feel I'm "losing some control"...but I can't stop "progress" (witness IFS front ends in nearly everything). So, what the heck - I'll give it a go, at least it'll be a change and the car came with a heap of other good stuff.

Maybe look for the "right" car overall and take the gearbox as it comes.
Mike

Originally Posted by 84RR

I can lock up the convertor and walk quicker on mine

Good for you enjoy your walk
Ive seen a auto disco going down a slippery hill with it locked in first the car started getting faster and to try and knock some speed off the driver used his brakes (abs) on a slippery surface no work

You still have more engine braking in a manual than a auto , if the auto is low on fluid you have reduced or no drive and it would be useless to lock your converter up then