We keep the genuine parts in stock...
Who has replaced their drive member (Drive Flange) Bolts and if so with wat?
I was re torquing mine after replacing a seal and got to 30lbs and the thing twisted in half (Ken was a witness)
they arent H/steel...
We keep the genuine parts in stock...
if ones been loose and hammering itself it will get that butteryfeel as all the little stress fractures wave hands and part company, I see maybe 1 a month like it and its usually only one or 2 bolts on a flange that do it. then its replace the lot after lots of swearing.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
The OE bolts are supposed to be grade 10.9 High tensile. I have broken a few in my time, and the reason is fatigue. The tensile strength of these bolts is quite high, but if overtightened then they will stretch only a SMALL amount before breaking. I have replaced these with grade 8.8 in the past to test the theory that a slightly lesser tensility allows some degree of stretch and movement before plastic deformation and breakage occurs. The 'test' vehicle was a 130 Defender, its rear diff now resides under the back of my RR, Still with 8.8 bolts.
JC
Are they perhaps a one use only bolt? must be replaced every time they are undone.
URSUSMAJOR
no, they're reusable so sayeth the emei...
I prefer the 8.8 grade with a lock washer under it tho, just seems right to me...
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
errr, I hate spring washers and the like.
A good tension wrench and the appropriate loctite is a mechanic's best friend
FWIW, i had an article years ago on rod bolt failures conducted by Ford Motorsport in the US.
The three areas tested were over tensioning (IIRC plastic deformation was just starting) and under tensioning vs correct tension (based on bolt stretch)
Interesting conclusion was that the worst thing you can do to a highly loaded high tensile bolt was under tension it.
Fatigue failure life was substantially shorter (IIRC less than 1/2) for the under tensioned bolts vs over tensioned, which was only a slightly shorter life compared to the correct tension.
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