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Thread: 2.25D injector pump shudder

  1. #1
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    2.25D injector pump shudder

    When clipping along at a fast pace (ie. 40mph +), and I slip it into neutral or change gear too slowly, the car shudders as (what I suspect is) the injector pump struggles to keep up. It almost sounds like it'll stall, but it never does.

    I minimise it by slowing with the brakes first and only dipping the clutch in when revs have dropped to near idle.

    What's happening? It's my first series diesel and I'm not at all sure how the injector pump works!


    Alastair

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I can't see it being the injection pump failing to keep up - if it was not keeping keeping up, surely this would show up when it was pulling, not when there was no load. The problem seems ot be happening when the engine is at high rpm but throttle closed - it could be a problem with the governor function of the pump, but I would think it is more likely something else, possibly the injectors not functioning well at a combination of very low fuelling and high rpm, possibly something totally unrelated, such as soft or broken engine mounts or a dragging hand brake (I think this is a likely one).

    If you have a intake throttle to provide brake vacuum as some of these had, consider the possibility that this is poorly adjusted, closing off too much of the intake.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    worn pump guts....

    whats happening is the govenor is over compensating and hunting to try and keep it at idle, think like you did when you first learnt to drive a manual and how you used to try to work the loud pedal to stop the bunny hopping you inevitabley did at first. The govenro and other inernal wear is doing just that..

    Fortunately you can temprarily con it (if it hasnt already been done) by lifting the IDle RPM other than that the pump needs to be pullled down and at a minimum have the weight pivots and the springs adjusted. it might also be that the idle has been set too low. 650rpm is about right but 700 seems to work better.

    your injectors will also be contributing if they are not set up with the same crack pressure or if they arent spraying really nice, in over run conitions they only get a little fuel and it may be injecting too late into the power stroke to be doing any good or not atomizing it correctly.


    Try this..

    In stead of snapping the noisey pedal closed, ease off it gently and see what happens.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
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    Roger that!
    The PO renewed everything except the pump when he put my car together.
    Apparently he just found an old injector pump, bolted it on and it worked, so that was enough.

    I've been aware that I need to get it serviced. My power is down (compared to other series LRs) and lots of smoke follows me up hills. I still manage 10L/100kms, however.

    I'm rather concerned at the potential price of the injector pump service, so I'm holding off for the time being. Is it a ticking timebomb, or will it keep on truckin'?

  5. #5
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    it will run forever.... the more they wear the longer they take to wear out.... but they get harder and harder to start and blow more and more smoke.

    do yourself a favor get the injectors done before the pump I did mine super cheaply by means of experimental substitution of parts from 8 injectors till i got the best i could out of them and put them in and that made quite an impressive difference to starting and smoke and I didnt even look at the pump

    new nozzles cost about $35ea and the seal set costs about $30 and does 4 injectors.

    Some parts of the injecton pump are DIY if your very confident with fiddly stuff and have the right tools and the manual the govenor and its springs are in that catagory. Dont do it tho as it will be redone if you send the pump off for work.

    In extreme cases they will get sloppy enough that they wont shut down but thats easily sorted by a stall out, I have heard of a runawayfrom a failure in the pump but never seen one (or the end results of one from a pump failure). I have seen the end results of plenty of other runaways tho.....
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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