Thread: Newbie: Maintenance Tips - Series 1 Disco tdi Manual

Ok - I'll admit it - I'm a total newbie to discos..... so you experts out there go easy with me. I've purchased a fairly stock standard reasonably priced, reasonable condition 1998 manual tdi (done 180,000km and seemingly well maintained - logs and outwardly ...).

What are the barest minimum standards of care? Preferred oils, fuel additives, services etc? What are desirable modifications to keep engine running sweet? What about steering dampers etc? Any suggestions on mechanics - reasonable priced and reliable in Sydney (or Southern Highlands)? Intended use - around country town/district - excursion into paddocks and maybe some serious 4wd touring one day....

Welcome Mitta,

Hope you get to enjoy several good years out of your 300Tdi Disco (or Series 1A, as I like to call them...).

Get hold of the RAVE CD workshop manuals if you're gong to do any work on it yourself. Believe they're available on this site these days.

As per the previous posts, change oil and filter every 5000km. I use a good mineral oil (Castrol RX super, Shell Rimula X, etc. in 15W40, CH-4 or better). [I reckon premium synthetics are a waste of money if you are changing them every 5000 - and even the best synthetics can thicken-up with soot in a largely town-driven diesel, so I wouldn't leave them in for 10-15-20,000 anyway.]

Change all other fluids every 40,000km/2 years, incl brake fluid, coolant. Don't forget the front swivel-ball oil. I also change fuel filter and air filter at about these intervals, but depends on amount of dusty road use.

If you're into deep water crossings, extend the front and rear axle breathers up to the top of the firewall. The standard ones finish fairly low in the LHS engine bay (front) and near the fuel sedimenter, RHS rear. [By the way, drain the sedimenter bowl every oil change.] Also, buy two 1/4" BSP brass plugs from a plumbing supplier and fit them to the drain holes a the bottom of the timing belt cover and the bellhousing. I leave my "wading plugs" in all the time and only remove them each oil change to check for oil leaking from inside the covers.

Speaking of timing belts: your '98 model should have been after the original design faults was rectified but the belt (and idler, tensioner and perhaps crank pulley if req'd) should be replaced every 70,000km. With 180K up, yours should have been replaced twice now. Check your log books.

To keep the engine running sweet:

Good idea to check (or have checked) the injection timing. If fuel economy and performance are OK I wouldn't bother yet with injector checks/replacement.

I put a dose of Fuel Doctor biocide/water dispersant into my tank every second or third fill. Seems to have reduced the amount of gunge that comes out of the sedimenter.

I check valve clearances only every 40,000km these days and they rarely need adjusting. Will probably need a set of the little valve stem caps soon (nearly 240,000 km up now).

At about 180,000 km our original rear springs were sagging a bit (but they'd been worked hard - heavy 'semi-permanent' load in the back plus caravan towing) so I fitted Lovells HD springs all round. Luv 'em - slight lift (20mm?) but still a great compliant ride. Had also fitted Bilstien gas dampers some time before - excellent. Others will have different preferences re. springs and dampers. Still has original steering damper - should check it one of these years...

If your front carpets get wet one day, it's probably the air con condensate drains overflowing. Under the car, just either side of the gearbox main body, there are two rubber teats that just love to glue themselves closed. Flick them with a finger and prepare to have half a cupful of smelly, dirty water cascade down your arm...

That's enough waffle for now. Hope this helps.

PS: When you want more poke/less "turbo lag" from your beast, send me a private message and I'll tell you about my tuning notes (or ask others on here).