Thread: 2007 D3 TDV6 problem

just to be dumb.....

have you got the power setting switch, if so what position is it in?(is the auto in sports mode or otherwise?)

when you say dash lights do you mean the gauge lights or the actual idiot lights on the dash?

and when you had to "lock the brakes" did you actually lock up wheels and leave black marks on the road or did the ABS kick in?

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

just to be dumb.....

have you got the power setting switch, if so what position is it in?(is the auto in sports mode or otherwise?)

when you say dash lights do you mean the gauge lights or the actual idiot lights on the dash?

and when you had to "lock the brakes" did you actually lock up wheels and leave black marks on the road or did the ABS kick in?

Update: Dealer came and got ours today and left us with a demo vehicle. Have to say the demo is much more responsive then ours, maybe they have been giving it some stick compared to my puttering along taking it easy while it beds in.

anyway the delaer is really doing the best to sort this so can not fault them on this issue.

To answer your questions:
the auto is in normal mode.

By dash lights I mean the backlighting for night time use so you can read how fast you are going etc

No skid, ABS kicked in. It was a solid stop but no skid was produced. Have to say it has excellent brakes

Hi Pete, sorry to hear about all your problems.

There was a thread on UK D3 site about a loose loom connect behind the battery compartment and it caused all manor of strange faults and other totally unrelated events and it is something that was easily checked.

I had a quick look but couldn’t find the thread.

Someone may now it.

Cheers.

If they havent checked them already The earths on any electronically controled vehicle are a great place to start you can get some really screwball diagnostic killing "what the hell is causing this furball" type faults.

Id have assumed that the dealer should have already checked these but you never know.

Follow the earths up with a connector reliability check and then your down to sensors and ECU. A live run diagnostics with a good testbook hooked up will tell you what the sensors are saying and eliminate them and then the ECU itself can be run in a test harness to eliminate it, After that its mechanical.

as a side note where are you getting your fuel from? Have them check the fuel filters out.

Electrickery You paid all that money for an electric time bomb..just lucky it hasnt phuked up in the Desert 500km from a roadhouse I hate electric gadgets and computers in cars...good luck
Make sure you take it back to the dealer and leave it there until they get it right $80000 plus it a lot of money to be messed around with from day 1

why dont you kick his dog while your at it?

Originally Posted by DirtyDawg

Electrickery You paid all that money for an electric time bomb..just lucky it hasnt phuked up in the Desert 500km from a roadhouse I hate electric gadgets and computers in cars...good luck

this from the man with

Lockers F&R,troutbeck under armor,suspension mods, 34" Simex, 12000lb winch,Pioneer stereo which defeats the Simex

in his tag line, bet its an electric winch too. Oh and do you still crank start your diesel or is that an electric starter motor your using...


:P

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

why dont you kick his dog while your at it?