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Thread: V8 coolant temp sender part number

  1. #1
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    V8 coolant temp sender part number

    Does anyone know the coolant temp sender part number for a 94 V8 Disco? (for the ECU not the gauge)

    The Microcat CD has it as either

    PRC8003
    PRC8783

    I'm new to navigating that CD and am finding it a little painful. So not sure which (if either) it is.

    It says the first number is for the manual and the second is for either manual or automatic.

    My V8 is running rich so thought it is time to do something about it.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Hmmmmm just tested mine when at operating temp.

    Open circuit. I'm guessing that is a bad thing.

    Not the easiest thing to get the plug off and the probes on when everything around it is bloody hot!

  3. #3
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    Hello...............ello.................ello..... ...............ello

    For future reference the part number is ETC8496.

    The numbers above I think are for the temp gauge.

    $28 +GST

    Also seems to fit most if not all EFI V8 Rover engines.

  4. #4
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    Back to me again.

    I just found out that the switch I tested for resistance is the fan on/off switch. No wonder it read as being open circuit

    I did however just test my actual coolant temp sensor for the ECU. It read 213ohms minutes after I shut the engine down after driving home from work.
    I read in an old thread that PhilipA suggested that it should read 300-400ohms when at operating temp. So for an unloaded trip home in the cold through suburban streets it is reading the temp as too high I would think. Not too much in it though but maybe enough.

    Does anyone know what the difference is between the two ETC8496?
    Aparently there is one LA and before and one MA and after. Same part number but an A and a B perhaps.

    Just found this on an excellent link that has been posted up on this site before.

    The Coolant Temperature Sensor should change resistance with heat, per the following specs.
    -10C (14°F) 9100-9300 Ohms
    0C (32°F) 5700-5900 Ohms
    20C (68°F) 2400-2600 Ohms
    40C (104°F) 1100-1300 Ohms
    60C (140°F) 500-700 Ohms
    80C (176°F) 300-400 Ohms
    100C (212°F) 150-200 Ohms
    http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utemad View Post
    Back to me again.

    I just found out that the switch I tested for resistance is the fan on/off switch. No wonder it read as being open circuit

    I did however just test my actual coolant temp sensor for the ECU. It read 213ohms minutes after I shut the engine down after driving home from work.
    I read in an old thread that PhilipA suggested that it should read 300-400ohms when at operating temp. So for an unloaded trip home in the cold through suburban streets it is reading the temp as too high I would think. Not too much in it though but maybe enough.

    Does anyone know what the difference is between the two ETC8496?
    Aparently there is one LA and before and one MA and after. Same part number but an A and a B perhaps.

    Just found this on an excellent link that has been posted up on this site before.
    The coolant temp will rise when you shut the engine off, it is no longer being cooled, it will eventually drop, I have seen a rise of 50 F+ after shutting down, Regards Frank.

  6. #6
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    Welcome to my thread

    That is a good point. However unless the sensor is reading funny then it is not the cause of my rich running if it is reading high anyway.

    I'm still going to replace it. Then I'll stick the sensor in a bowl of hot water with a thermometer just for kicks.

  7. #7
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    er, I just saw your thread..

    would this have helped? http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=36224

  8. #8
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    Landrover Part
    ETC8496, Sensor-Coolant Temperature

    Replacement

    Lucas SNB802
    Intermotor 55128
    Facet 73200
    Lucas 73355A
    Lucas 8TT
    Lucas SNB802
    Webcon WTS163
    Jaguar EAC3927
    Delco 213-2787
    Champion CCS35

    I bought the last one from my local Repco.

  9. #9
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    Just catching up with this thread after your PM.

    ETC8496 is listed as the correct part number for all Disco1 V8s.

    Another common cause of rich running is the air flow meter. See if adjusting it makes a difference to the CO readings. If it won't adjust, you have a problem.
    It could be as simple as the plastic adjusting screw being loose/adrift or it might the the AFM internals themselves.
    Scott

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the reply Scouse.
    As I said in the PM, the different colour sensor should be coming into the shop tomorrow. I suspect the shops supplier will tell them what you told me and that there is only one or they will just send out another identical part.

    I did adjust my airflow meter. What I did was first cleaned it with carby cleaner, then adjusted it to read 174ohms between the two outer terminals (originally read 180ohms but think that was an incorrect reading as I later got 130ohms consistently). I got this figure from Outer Limits but no idea if it is correct.
    I did find out that the higher the resistance the leaner it runs. So if you lower the resistance it spits fuel out the exhaust. So the airflow meter could have been the problem but I don't have a CO2 meter to be 100% sure of anything.

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