Rexy, they are both tapered, it should go in till its flush. Try removing the front to rear to see if she tightens up & vise-versa. May just want to trial some plumbers tape, worked with my D1 for a few years.![]()
Hey fella's, does anyone have the trouble of their rear diff plug just wanting to keep threading all the way into the diff?? i'm just a bit worried that if i put it in to far it will hit on something and if i don't put it in far enought it will leak. does anyone know if the diff plugs are tapered? the front one tightens up well but the back one.....
little help??
Cheers from the Desert
Rexy
2000 130 TD5
Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world
Rexy, they are both tapered, it should go in till its flush. Try removing the front to rear to see if she tightens up & vise-versa. May just want to trial some plumbers tape, worked with my D1 for a few years.![]()
loctite is your friend here...
they are ment to be tapered occasionally they get over worked and will wind in further than flush. you can get crowned filler plugs that have a lip on them that seals to the housing instead of relying on the threads.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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Rexy,
They can go in too far, and will hit things if they fall in!
We have used 44gal drum (small bung) plugs in the past, as they not only have the correct thread but have a rubber seal as a convenient plus!
If you don't want to go the drum plug route, I have before now removed the backing plate and pressed the 'threaded section' in the press to crush it down a little, compressing against the plug more.
Drum plugs have never let me down before, and I recommend people take them as emergency spares too.
JC
My local LR specialists use brass plugs with a lip and O-ring - I think they are the same ones they use to replace the plastic plugs in the radiator and thermostat housing of the 300 Tdi.
... but I do like Justinc's method. I'll snaffle some of those the next time I see some.
Ron
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
We sometimes use those brass plugs on P38 and D2, as the thread is different to the defender salsI would prefer to use these plugs, as they look better than the drum plug!!!!but they wont fit the sals diff .
Sorry Ron, drum plugs won't fit your RR(Maybe they are too upmarket to be seen with drum plugs in them!
)
JC
Bugger!
I'll get some for the IIA
Ron
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
The Army brought out a modification in about 1995 that replaced the plug with one that has a lip in so it can not be wound all the way in.
They were having the same problem. The replacement plug looked a bit like a sump plug. You could should be able to get something from a place that selling industrial hydraulic fittings.
I was told the the thread in question comes in both a tapered and parallel type. What happens is the metal gets stretched from over tightening.
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