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Thread: 300Tdi Timing belt, What went wrong.... EVERYTHING

  1. #1
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    300Tdi Timing belt, What went wrong.... EVERYTHING

    Guys, Gals, Mutts and Pussy's
    Yesterday i changed the Timing belt on Grommet. Last time it was done was unknown. So i was not going to risk it even though a inspection thru the holes came out looking ok.

    Started to strip it down. Looked on the net 1st to find the Crank bolt was a 27mm, so i went off and got one in 3/4" drive...
    Got home to find it was the same as a 200tdi and a 30mm socket, no problem, i had one of them.
    Put the socklet and 3/4 bar on and turned the crank until i hit the chassis and then i removed the soleniod wire on the pump, turned the engine over to unscrew the bolt and...................... Locked solid..... tryed several times then it eventually went POP and unwound very slowly......... i got it out to find the whole tread was covered in loctite. Noice......
    Then came the removing of the Crank Pully/dampener. Loctite was used on the shaft as well. Puller had a great time of getting it off.
    After that i puleld the cover off and found the belt in good nick, but the idler and tensioner was well past its used by date.
    I cleaned the lot up and fitted a Major Timing Belt kit. Replacing the Crank gear was not fun either. Loctite was used there as well.
    Fitting was easy, read the new instructions for the new kit and fitted the lot.
    The 300 engine as you know has the problem with belts schreding.... well mine had had the fix up kit fitted in the past, but ther is still an update with the bolts that hold the tensioner and the Crank gear.

    How did i hold the crank while i tightened the Crank bolt??? i modified my 200 tdi tool and added a 60mm pipe to the plate and then bolted it to the Crank damper...

    Now came the putting back together and finding any pully that had a bearing was stuffed...
    Fan belt tensioner is noisy as is the Fan bearing in the front cover.
    I was trying to work out how i could lubricate the Fan bearing and not have to fork out the $450 for the front cover.
    So after i cleaned up the front timing cover i found the rear bearing seal had a tin cap. i pocked a small screwdriver through it and prissed it off. I then manually pushed grease into the bearing and continued to do so for about 10 mins.. i then cleaned it all up and refitted the rear seal cover and used Epoxy on the small hole i created.
    This is only a Temp fix and i will replace it properly in the next few weeks.
    I'm going to but a bearing from British 4wd and fit that. But i have to be carefull in pressing the old one out and the new one in, as removing alloy from the cover when you press the old one out, will make the new one a loose fit, then the fan just wanders out of the front cover.....

    The bearing in the Fan belt tensioner i am replacing and i'll do the hoses and belt while i'm there.....
    Cheap exercise....
    Timing belt kit $450, belt, 2 pullys, Gasket, bolts, Crank gear.
    Front Timing cover $450
    Hoses $200 for all
    Serp belt, $50

    Love it.. but mind you... will never have to do this again on Grommet... There is no way he will live another 80,000km..... Sad fact is i only drive it on weekends and its a Bush toy and facts are that it wont last for ever......

    So the tally for this job is
    2 knuckles that are not ripped apart and lots of swearing...

    Clarkie

  2. #2
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    Fan

    Thanks for the info, I'm up for the same job soon. How did you get the radiator fan off - do I need a large C=spanner ?

  3. #3
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    Nope, 32mm fan hub spanner from SuperCheap. Same as Ford size.

    SO all that bad language hovering over Mooroolbark WAS you, Clarkie.

    Cheers,

    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE

  4. #4
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    getting the bearing out and the new one in should be easy, just heat the housing up and the old one should damn near fall out, and the new one fall in.
    Used to do this with alloy uprights and Hewland diff side plates. Use just enough heat so spit or water just starts to spit/pop.

  5. #5
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    Someone told me about wiping dishwashing liquid on alloy, then you heat the alloy till the soap browns and it's ready to eat.. no no wait a minute..
    I remember now,, a 4x4 is born is where I saw it, they were preparing the alloy panels for some reshaping. Perhaps this technique would show safe heat applied to cast alloy as well?

  6. #6
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    p38arover is online now Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
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    My 300 mTdi and JohnE's 300 Tdi also had the pulleys Loctited on.

    In my case it was the harmonic balancer (needed oxy to remove as the shaft nose had also been centre-popped to expand it). That menat a new harmonic balaner had to be bought. The toothed pulley had also been Loctited on.

    What should have been a 1 hour job ended up taking a whole lot longer.

    Ron
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    getting the bearing out and the new one in should be easy, just heat the housing up and the old one should damn near fall out, and the new one fall in.
    Used to do this with alloy uprights and Hewland diff side plates. Use just enough heat so spit or water just starts to spit/pop.
    How did you heat it???
    Oven or oxy??

  8. #8
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    used both

    turbo torch should be good too, nice soft flame.

  9. #9
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    eucalyptus

    Aluminium motorcycle parts are often freed with eucalyptus oil - yes must be real aust made stuff

  10. #10
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    Its a Landie, it will still be on the road in 30 years.
    2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
    2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
    1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
    1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
    2003 WK Holden Statesman
    Departed
    2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
    84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
    98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed

    Facta Non Verba

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