Thread: Steering crabbing after replalcing parts ...

Originally Posted by waynep

Ok I've had the alignment done but the steering wheel is not straight now so I give up and will do it myself.

One last question : to adjust the drag link length do you need to pop the ball joint or can it be done without doing that ? ( i don't have a ball joint puller )

Nothing needs to be removed.

The draglink is LH thread at one end and RH at the other, which is your adjustment facility.

Loosen both TRE clamps and adjust, take note of how much, (say for example 1/2 turn at a time) till you get the hang of how much it provides at the steering wheel.
Tighten clamps, quick test drive, repeat as needed.

If you do ever need to pop a TRE for any reason, 99% of the time a smart belt with a hammer to the steering arm itself will unseat the taper inside (can you picture what I mean or need a pic?)


EDIT. never ever hit the TRE itself, you will damage it

Apologies it's an IFS and ignore the yellow arrow, I googled for a pic and nicked it.
tierodrouge.jpg
You want to hit the blue mark on the pic.

This is MUCH better than a TRE wedge tool which will destroy the rubber boot.

If you do have to flog the snot out of it you will want to replace with new TRE.

^^^^^

Also when you bashing it, its best to have a dolly or another hammer held firmly on the other side

waynep: given you're replacing parts due to a 'bend',
it may just be possible something else is also bent...

I wouldn't necessarliy blame a wheel aligner, yet...

how's the castor, relative - left and right?

cheers, GQ

I found a puller at super cheap for 20 bucks. It is good it removed a tie rod end that other methods i used wouldn't.
Don't have a pic but they are black and cast steel and work like a pincer. Bolt provides force. If you do want to take any tie rods ends out. Like i did on the weekend after bending the rear tie rod.

WR

Originally Posted by rovercare

Can be done without taking the rod end out

Wheel alignment machines are great if

1. your lazy and don't wanna do it yourself even if you know how

2. you don't know what your doing

3. if you want to check things like castor before doing the appropriate corrections

But the only thing that is adjustable is the toe

I am lazy plus I don't know what I am doing - no really I did have a bit of a bump underneath so I wanted to get castor etc checked properly.

Originally Posted by 100I

Nothing needs to be removed.

The draglink is LH thread at one end and RH at the other, which is your adjustment facility.

Loosen both TRE clamps and adjust, take note of how much, (say for example 1/2 turn at a time) till you get the hang of how much it provides at the steering wheel.
Tighten clamps, quick test drive, repeat as needed.

Thanks for the advice all. If I had taken a proper look underneath, I would have soon seen that you can adjust both the steering wheel centering ( front drag link ) and the toe out ( rear drag link ) without taking any ball joint off.