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Thread: Disco1 steering box

  1. #1
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    Disco1 steering box

    Hi all.

    My steering has developed a small amount of play. It was not there yesterday.

    With the engine off the steering has a small amount of play that I have traced to the steering box itself. It is only noticable with the engine running because I know it is there.
    I have looked in the RAVE CD and there is an adjusting nut on the top of the box. Is this to adjust the play that I have mentioned or something else?
    The RAVE CD talks about backlash. I assume this is what I am experiencing. I just don't want to go touching the nut to find out it isn't the problem and I have just created another.

    Also there appears to be a grease nipple on top of the box. Is it really a grease nipple or is it a pressure relief valve or breather? I haven't found any mention of it. It has a rubber cap that I couldn't remove by hand.

    I have never had anything to do with steering boxes before so any advice is welcome.

  2. #2
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    Yes the locknut and bolt is for adjustment, back off the locknut a few turns ,tighten the bolt and give the wheel a few back/forth turns to see how it is, you need to have a little play in it - that is a simplified version as its almost bed time. Also check the nut on the pitman arm, when i had the wanders on my rangie and adjusting box did nothing i traced it back to a loose nut. Could also be panhard rod bushes need replacement.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  3. #3
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    when you do the adjustment if your doing it in car disconnect the steering damper and do it with both fronts off the ground.

    that way you'll have better feel for the backlash.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
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    It is definately in the box.

    I wiggled the steering with the bonnet up and movement goes in the box but no movement comes out.

    Your confirmation of what the nut does is all I need.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    when you do the adjustment if your doing it in car disconnect the steering damper and do it with both fronts off the ground.
    The RAVE CD says to disconnect the drag link from the steering box to give the same effect.

    Which is what I'll do unless I can get my hands on some decent chassis stands. I've been putting off buying them as all I ever see is crappy looking chinese ones.

  6. #6
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    or you could bring it up my way and we can do propshaft + steering all in one hit... IVe still got your propshaft slip joint rubber on shelf which is in the garage, which reminds me dont you do elecy type work......
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    Be aware that most wear occurs at the contact surfaces where the wheels are straight ahead.

    If you adjust out all backlash resulting from wear, you might find that the steering binds when you go to either lock.

  8. #8
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    nahh the box is designed with that in mind...

    You do the preload and backlash adjustment at dead center and there will be a little bit of lash at the end of the travel...

    If you do the adjustment at the ends and go in it will bind in the center and crack the bottom support bearing.

    The reason I like to do it with the wheels still hooked up and dumping the contact with the road and the damper is it gives you something to knock the setup against. If you have just the arm on the bottom you can leave just a little lash in there that you wont find till youve got it all back together again ESP if your not doing the preload at the same time.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    or you could bring it up my way and we can do propshaft + steering all in one hit...
    That sounds like a plan. I'll PM you.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    IVe still got your propshaft slip joint rubber on shelf which is in the garage, which reminds me dont you do elecy type work......
    I have done some but it depends what you're after. In the PM also.

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