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My only real experience with spray painting was to repaint my 2a - and the gun used I paid $15 for at a clearing sale. But I do not think the shortcomings of that job can be blamed on the gun - apart from the shortcomings of the preparation, the temperature was in the low forties when I did it, and part of it was done in a dust storm. I was working against a deadline - I had removed all the body panels except the bulkhead and radiator support to paint individually, and I had to get it finished and back together to get a pink slip so I could renew the registration.
John
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By the look of a lot of the vehicles I've seen, I think this is the method used by Land Rover;) although the wind may have abated a little between coats.:D
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I agree with those that recommend a good quality gun !
Ask the outlet for advice and match it to the compressor you have. A good low pressure gun is ideal.
I have also used the premixed cans for touching up
wheels and bullbars, up here they cost about $20.
I have always done my own panel beating and spraying
and can only advise not to skimp on quality.
The proper tool and preperation is everything.
The other thing is to have good comfortable eye protection and a good quality breathing mask with replaceable elements. This is sometimes overlooked
by the home handyman but is very important.
There is nothing like the feeling you get by doing it all yourself.
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A water trap for the air line is also a damn good idea!
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Also, another advantage of having a quality gun, like an Iwata as previously mentioned is the availability of needles and caps.
That will allow you do spray more period paint if you decide to do a proper restoration on an older Series I or II, as older paints are usually lead based or of a much heavier molecular construction. It will also allow you to spray stone guard and high fill primer without having a glitch.
I think a little bit of high fill is ideal when painting a Series/Defender ;)
