Reply With Quoteunless your in antarctica, (or my bedroom when the missus aint happy) the suzi should start without glowing within 4-5 turns of the crank at the most...
methinks something else is afoot.
Fossicker
is there another way to start a diesel if glow plugs are not working...my isuzu cranks over for about half a minute before{it was} starting...now i am just draining the battery{won't start}...is there a "bush remedy" to get this thing going...thanks.
RoverLord
unless your in antarctica, (or my bedroom when the missus aint happy) the suzi should start without glowing within 4-5 turns of the crank at the most...
methinks something else is afoot.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ChatterBox
Would tend to agree with Dave, unless it's really cold (minus 10 ) it should start without glow plugs
Fossicker
i tried running a wire from +battery to glow plug and leave on for 30 sec...to no avail...any suggestions...
RoverLord
check each individual glow plug for conductivity (remove the bridging strap first) and resistance they should be about 4 ohms each, if they are working (did you get a nice fat spark on hook up) then your problem is more than likely fuel not getting to the injectors (blocked fuel filters/sedimentors/lift pump strainers are a good start here)
for several turns of the crank.
have you had it compression tested or had leakage tests done on it?
the simple way is to remove 1 glow plug at a time, get that cyllinder on firing and then apply 15-20 psi air to the hole for the glow plug. listen at the exhaust, oil fill hole and the inlet (remove the air filter) if you hear ANY hissing at the inlet/exhaust then you need to have valves cleaned up A little tiny bit of escaping air from the crank is ok but if it sounds really free flowing then its time for rings.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
In the bush we use START YOU BASTARD that will get it going but want fix the root of the problem...Originally Posted by Traveler
Swaggie
A diesel engine in good condition should start on the first compression stroke after injection starts. You most likely are not getting fuel through. Check the fuel system for blockages, particularly that little sieve in the banjo bolt on the injection pump inlet. Pull the sedimenter apart and thoroughly clean it out. Most have not been apart since new.
Last edited by Bigbjorn; 8th September 2007 at 09:06 PM. Reason: Clarification
URSUSMAJOR
In the bush we use START YOU BASTARD that will get it going but want fix the root of the problem...
Only use on a engine that you dont want to keep....
It is great to get you going in a desparate situation but it does damage the engine.
Aerostart/Start ya bastard or ether are all the same thing.
ChatterBox
From memory an Isuzu has to turn over at more than 200rpm for the pump to open for fuel to get to the injectors. I could be wrong though.
Justin
Master
Check for a loose joint in the fuel line fittings. Any air being sucked in will make it hard to start. I spent ages checking the heater plugs when the problem was a loose-fitting fuel filter. Another time it was the injector fuel return fittings.
Stephen.
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